Hubert Lignier, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 1988

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Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Lignier's 1988 Clos de la Roche, of which there are 300 cases for the world, is very good. It is not quite as black/ruby in color as the Charmes-Chambertin, but it is awesomely concentrated with a fabulous, highly scented perfume of black fruits, exotic spices, and toasty new oak. In the mouth, the layers of fruit are astounding, and the finish lasts for at least two minutes. Lignier has made some spectacular wines in 1988. None of the wines are fined or filtered, and as a result, they will throw a heavy sediment in 2-3 years time.

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Reviewed by: Pierre Rovani

Having a cellar full of 1988 red Burgundies to serve as a constant reminder of why I do not like this hard, tannic vintage, readers can imagine my surprise when I tasted Lignier's outstanding 1988 Clos de la Roche. While most of its counterparts from the Cote d'Or's top producers are drying out, Lignier's '88 has loads of fruit to cope with its firm, tannic backbone. It reveals mouth-watering cedar, tobacco, candle wax, and blackberry aromas. On the palate, this medium-to-full-bodied wine has superb depth to its black cherry and spice cake-flavored character. While it does have copious quantities of firm tannins, its finish remains long, ripe, and sweet. Anticipated maturity: now-2005.