Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2012

robert_parker91

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2012 Clos des Lambrays has a slighty lighter bouquet than the nascent 2013: tertiary red berry fruit that is nicely defined though in need of a little more vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins: notes of mulberry and dark plum with a smooth, slightly lactic on the finish. This is not a bad Clos des Lambrays and yet I am convinced that the 2013 will turn out to be the better Grand Cru in the long run.

robert_parker94

Reviewed by: William Kelley

The 2012 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is superb, rivaled only by the 2010 and 2015 among recent vintages of this near-monopole, unfurling in the glass with notions of cassis, currant leaf, rich soil, smoked duck, incense and richly savory bass notes. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional, with a lovely line of tangy acidity, considerable depth at the core and a long, sapid finish. After shutting down for a few years, the wine is already beginning to open up and realize the promise it showed from barrel.

robert_parker92

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2012 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru was tasted as a blend of one new and one used barrel, representing what the final assemblage will be. There are just 50 pieces this year, whereas normally there are over 100. It has a distinctive, quintessential Clos des Lambrays bouquet with well-defined brambly black fruit, forest floor and damp moss scents. Fine tannins underpin the palate with crisp, almost sharp acidity and a slightly herbaceous finish that distinguishes it from others. As so often the case, it comes across stern and rustic in its youth, but experience has told me that after 6-8 years in bottle that stem character will disappear and I like the balance and focus here. Those that appreciate Clos des Lambray’s style will appreciate this, those who prefer more fruit head over to Clos de Tart. Usually the domaine produces two premier crus from Puligny: Les Folatieres and Caillerets, but because of hail damage Thierry blended them together to make a single premier cru. Thierry Brouin mourns his half empty ancient cellar that should be full of his 2012 and 2013. It is a sorrowful sight, like a crib without a baby. His wines were not spared the onslaught of disasters that beset the first half of the growing season, so that by the time he commenced the harvest on 20 September he was looking at 15 hectoliters per hectare. To put a couple of figures on that, his usual 15 barrels of Morey Saint Denis were reduced to just two barrels, the Puligny Les Folatieres and Caillerets were so measly they have been blended into a premier cru, whilst there is half the usual quantity of Clos des Lambrays. The style of Thierry’s wines can be uncompromising in their youth and his 2012s, what there remains, are no different. These wines always feel a little “raw” in their youth, quite stemmy and even green, though experience has shown not to draw too many conclusions from this, since they can age beautifully and that raw element ebbs away with time. It is interesting to note, as always, the different approaches between here and Clos de Tart, where Sylvain Pitiot commenced the main harvest eight days later on 28 September, resulting in a different style of wine. You take your pick which one you prefer. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800 and through most UK merchants.

robert_parker90

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a classically lined, slightly herbaceous bouquet, perhaps even ferrous though well defined with dusky black fruit emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, open-knit, a little herbaceous again but balanced, though I would prefer more flesh to come through on the bony finish. For me, it is not in the same class as Clos de Tart, but it is always intriguing to see how this wine develops and surprises in bottle.

vinous96

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

Savory herbs, mint, sweet black stone fruits and lavender are some of the many notes that take shape in the 2012 Clos des Lambrays. Deep and resonant, yet also medium in body, the 2012 impresses for its length and exceptional overall balance. The 100% whole clusters are very nicely integrated. Hints of rose petal and violet add striking perfume on the finish. Thierry Brouin did 5-6 punch downs a day to start, then left the wine on the skins for a total of two weeks. Simply put, the 2012 is shaping up to be magnificent.

vinous93

Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer

Moderately saturated medium red. Wild, very ripe aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, mocha, cola, leather and game are surprisingly explosive for the vintage. Impressively rich and dense, offering flavors of pungent black fruits, loam and peppery spices, plus a whiff of cinders. A real essence of Morey-Saint-Denis with its combination of dark fruits and soil tones. Impressively plush and horizontal on the palate but with the pepper and spice notes providing superb mid-palate lift. Finishes very long, with substantial dusty tannins that avoid dryness. Robust more than elegant, this wine tastes like it just came out of the barrel. Indeed, it quickly went back into a shell in the glass, suggesting that it will need a minimum of another five to seven years of patience. I suspect it will eventually merit an even higher rating. (13.7% alcohol; 3.6 pH; 3.9 grams per liter total acidity)

vinous93

Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer

(100% vendange entier; the village fruit was destemmed in 2012): Superripe aromas of red fruits, peony, mocha and balsamic spices. Plush, full and seamless, offering a pliant texture and terrific depth to the flavors of red fruits, dried spices, coffee and flowers. A tad warm on the back end but the dusty tannins melt into the wine's fruit. Less minerally than usual for this grand cru but there's no denying its richness and depth. This will need time to burn off some of its baby fat.

vinous96

Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer

(100% vendange entier; 50% new oak): Good deep red. Captivating aromas of black fruits, olive, medicinal herbs, licorice and flowers; if this isn't classic Clos des Lambrays, it certainly delivers grand cru complexity. At once silky and vibrant, with the black fruit, medicinal herb and brown spice flavors enlivened by interested minerality. On second thought, this one contains most of the classic Clos des Lambrays food groups. Impeccably balanced, spicy and very long on the aftertaste. And built for the long haul.