Wine Advisor
Comte Georges de Vogue, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2019
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a vintage that I never tasted out of barrel due to axing visits during the pandemic. It has a richer and more opulent bouquet compared to its peers—wild strawberry and blueberry, iodine and violet petals. There is plenty of exuberance here, but there is also a sense of control, and the new oak, which seems higher than its peers, is neatly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins, behind which lies a sturdy and sinewy Bonnes-Mares. Assertive and alcoholic on the finish, I feel some heat at the back of the throat. This is a bit of a bruiser, but maybe that bruiser will be tamed with extended bottle age? Time will tell. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.
About the Producer
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue is one of the most important estates in the Chambello-Musigny appellation, thanks to its stake in important vineyards. The Comte de Vogue is, as the English writer Charles Dickens once said, "as historic and admirable as a great mountain". The vineyard of the Comte de Vugo covers approximately 12.5 hectares, of which about 7 hectares are located in the Mussini vineyard (70% of the entire top vineyard) and about 2.5 hectares in the nearby Bernemar region. The grapes are all hand-harvested and the vast majority are destemmed (although in 1990 100% of the stems were retained). The wines are first fermented in vats, then aged for 18 months in small oak barrels (40% to 45% renewed), clarified with egg whites and lightly filtered before bottling. The wines are extremely intense and full-bodied, which is not surprising given the extremely low yields and the limestone soils of the Mussini vineyards. The wines of the Comtes de Vugo are not meant to be tasted young, and in outstanding vintages these very long-lived wines usually require 10 to 15 years of ageing. However, it is worth noting that the 2002 vintage of Musigny Old Vine is of particularly high quality. It has intense aromas of red cherry, spice and candied raspberry aromas, with a hint of oak. This noble, full-bodied, refined wine has fragrant floral flavours with fruity notes of red and black fruits. A more feminine wine than the bold, chewy, highly robust 1990 vintage, this is a work of art with delicate tannins.
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