Wine Advisor
Comte Georges de Vogue, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 1991
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1991 Bonnes Mares enjoys a dark purple/black color, and huge, dense, concentrated fruit flavors tightly bound by structure, tannin, and acidity. Clean, yet impressively rich and full, it should be at its best between 2000-2015. By any standards Comte de Vogue's 1991s are impressive wines. They reveal the deepest colors of any red burgundies I tasted from the 1991 vintage. In fact, their deep purple, saturated colors are reminiscent of barrel samples of Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. Made in a Bordeaux-like style, they are tannic, exceptionally well-structured, and loaded with flavor and muscle. Are they the most elegant and personality-filled red burgundies? Only time will tell, as all these wines need at least 5-6 years of cellaring. A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA, Barrique Wine Co., Chicago, IL and Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY.
About the Producer
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue is one of the most important estates in the Chambello-Musigny appellation, thanks to its stake in important vineyards. The Comte de Vogue is, as the English writer Charles Dickens once said, "as historic and admirable as a great mountain". The vineyard of the Comte de Vugo covers approximately 12.5 hectares, of which about 7 hectares are located in the Mussini vineyard (70% of the entire top vineyard) and about 2.5 hectares in the nearby Bernemar region. The grapes are all hand-harvested and the vast majority are destemmed (although in 1990 100% of the stems were retained). The wines are first fermented in vats, then aged for 18 months in small oak barrels (40% to 45% renewed), clarified with egg whites and lightly filtered before bottling. The wines are extremely intense and full-bodied, which is not surprising given the extremely low yields and the limestone soils of the Mussini vineyards. The wines of the Comtes de Vugo are not meant to be tasted young, and in outstanding vintages these very long-lived wines usually require 10 to 15 years of ageing. However, it is worth noting that the 2002 vintage of Musigny Old Vine is of particularly high quality. It has intense aromas of red cherry, spice and candied raspberry aromas, with a hint of oak. This noble, full-bodied, refined wine has fragrant floral flavours with fruity notes of red and black fruits. A more feminine wine than the bold, chewy, highly robust 1990 vintage, this is a work of art with delicate tannins.
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