Comte Georges de Vogue, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2017

vinous92

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is darker in color, much more fruit-forward and less terroir-driven than its peers, though it is very pure, offering black cherries, raspberry confit and plenty of blue fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, almost saturated tannins and a mélange of red and blueberry fruit. Quintessential Bonnes-Mares, with a judicious lushness toward the finish. Very fine, but not best in show. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

vinous94

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a complex bouquet that is slightly more Musigny in personality than I expected. There is mainly dark fruit here, mixed with potpourri and incense and becoming more flamboyant as it aerates in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, and quite compact in style because, as François Millet noted, these 2017s are beginning to close down. But there is certainly good density here, and an enticing tensile finish.

vinous94

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a not dissimilar bouquet to the Les Amoureuses, though here there is slightly more red fruit and perhaps a heightened sense of Pinoté. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grippy tannin, good backbone (as usual) and a saline influence that becomes more accentuated toward the fresh finish. This feels a little tight-lipped at the moment compared to others tasted from barrel, but it also feels persistent and, for want of a better word, enigmatic.

robert_parker94

Reviewed by: William Kelley

The 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is also unusually saturated in hue this year, though Millet reports having done no more pigeage than usual. Offering up aromas of dark cherries, wild berries, cassis, dark chocolate, peony and caramelized orange rind, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and elegantly fine boned, with chalky structuring tannins, a pure core of fruit and a long, fragrant finish. Despite its disconcertingly deep hue this is one of the most supple, elegant renditions of the de Vogüé Bonnes Mares in the last decade.

vinous94

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a not dissimilar bouquet to the Les Amoureuses, though here there is slightly more red fruit and perhaps a heightened sense of Pinoté. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grippy tannin, good backbone (as usual) and a saline influence that becomes more accentuated toward the fresh finish. This feels a little tight-lipped at the moment compared to others tasted from barrel, but it also feels persistent and, for want of a better word, enigmatic.