Wine Advisor
Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco Asili 1998
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
I find the nose similar to the -00 Riserva Asili, but more tertiary with touches of roasted herbs and then with time more macerated black cherries and even a touch of kirsch. The palate is soft upon entry, belying some firm tannins underneath, I wine that kids you into thinking it is approachable but then slams the door shut on the finish. Needs considerable time but still, another stunning Giacosa. Tasted December 2007.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Giacosa's 1998 Barbaresco Asili needs 4-5 years of cellaring. It exhibits a dark ruby color along with a big, sweet nose of dried herbs, cedar, tobacco, tar, and red fruits. Opulent on the attack, with moderately high tannin as well as good underlying acidity, this is a fragrant effort for Giacosa. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
About the Producer
Bruno Giacosa, located in the south and south-west of Piemonte, has been performing well for three generations, thanks to the careful selection of high quality grapes and the emphasis on traditional winemaking techniques. The vineyard covers 44.7 acres (18 hectares) and is planted with Nebbiolo d'Alba, Barbera and Dolcetto varieties. The average age of the vines is 15 years and the planting density is between 4,500 and 5,000 vines per hectare, with an average yield of 4,800 litres per hectare. In terms of winemaking, the owner has a classic quote: "For us, the philosophy of traditionalism means making wines that are not only strongly local to the vine and the grape variety, but also maintain the various local terroirs. We have always made single-variety wines. Our winemaking techniques have been improved and we also make use of gentle pressing, crushing operations, advanced rotary systems and optimised cold and hot treatment techniques." For Garcosa, technology and tradition are not necessarily at odds with each other. In the winemaking process, the grapes are first fermented in steel containers and then transferred to wooden containers for ageing, which varies slightly depending on the type of wine. Finally, the wine is bottled without filtering. The main wines produced by the winery are the Barbaresco Garina, the Barbaresco Santo Stefano, the Barbaresco Asili, the Barbaresco Wabasha and the Barbaresco Asili. Barbaresco Rabaja, Barolo Falletto and Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto. Some of the more recent vintages are 2001, 2000, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1990, 1989, 1982 and 1978. These vintages are often relatively closed and uninteresting when first bottled, but after 10 years in the cellar, they all show an irresistible magic.
