Wine Advisor
Bibi Graetz, Colore 2015
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Description
Colore is the highest expression of Bibi Graetz dream, from very old vineyards of Sangiovese. Poor soils mixed with sand and stone and high altitude create the perfect terroir for a wine that tells a lot about Tuscany and its ancient taste. Only the best few barrels of the whole production will become Colore.
“What impress me the most of 2015 is the unique balance this vintage is able to deliver, everything is exactly how it should be, the tannins of Colorino are velvety and round, the Sangiovese has one of the highest grades of purity ever reached, and the blend with Canaiolo makes this Colore one of the best I ever made. A winemaker can’t desire a better vintage.”----Bibi Graetz 2015 will be remembered as one of the Great vintages for Tuscany and for Italy, the quality has proven to be very high all over the country, reaching phenomenal peaks in the main wine regions. The weather has played a crucial role in this success, starting from a winter with only few days of frost and few periods of extreme cold which influenced mainly the north facing vineyards. Spring had a nice balance of rain and insolation, with an early flourishing which granted a correct vegetative development and the blooming in May. Summer has been very warm till mid-august, when the heat was interrupted by few days of rain. The harvest period, which started the 26th of September and finished the last day of October, was very stable and sunny, allowing the right operations timing.
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Eric Guido
The 2015 Colore wafts up from the glass with masses of black cherry and autumnal spices complemented by sweet lavender. This is pure elegance, silky, nearly creamy, with zesty acidity and a pleasant inner sweetness offset by inner earth and floral tones. It leaves a staining of primary concentration contrasted by lingering sour citrus and tart wild berry nuances. There’s certainly a lot of power here, yet perfectly managed and with fantastic balance. I can already see the evolution that Graetz was striving for here, trying to focus more on purity and vertical lift.
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The 2015 Colore is a breakthrough wine for Bibi Graetz and his unique approach to winemaking and fruit sourcing. Remember, this renegade Tuscan vintner dedicates much of his intellectual effort to discovering the ancient vines and vineyards he wants to farm. He is like a high level garagiste who does not pretend to limit his fruit selection to vines under his direct ownership. This affords a level of versatility and range that is not common to the many family-owned estates of Italian viticulture that focus their efforts on their own land. Colore is a blend of equal parts Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino from three sites (Lamole, Vincigliata and Siena). The 2013 and 2014 vintages were skipped, and Bibi Graetz has moved forward directly to 2015. I tasted this wine from four bottles: one opened the previous day at lunch, one opened the night before, one opened that morning and one opened just before I poured the sample into may glass. This approach awarded an interesting panoramic view of the wine's evolution, but in truth, it did not change as much as you might think. I mean this in a positive way, because the wine in no way tasted flat or oxidative. Of course, the recently opened bottles showed some nervous and rigid qualities, whereas the bottles that had been open longer were softer, more expressive and more fleshed out. Colore offers dark and determined quality of fruit with layered tones of ripe cherry, dried blackberry, spice and grilled herb. Elegant mineral tones also appear. This is a unique wine with a personality that marries a wild side to a sophisticated one. This is a singular Tuscan red.
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
Compared to the 2016 vintage, this edition from 2015 offers more volume and fruit weight, and it leans into oxidized flavors. The Bibi Graetz 2015 Colore is reaching the top of its drinking window, showing dried fruit, plum and a hint of something savory that reminds me of juniper or cured bresaola. The wine is quite accessible in terms of mouthfeel, and it ends with a touch of tannic dustiness. This wine is not evolving as I would have hoped.
Reviewed by: Eric Guido
The 2015 Colore wafts up from the glass with masses of black cherry and autumnal spices complemented by sweet lavender. This is pure elegance, silky, nearly creamy, with zesty acidity and a pleasant inner sweetness offset by inner earth and floral tones. It leaves a staining of primary concentration contrasted by lingering sour citrus and tart wild berry nuances. There’s certainly a lot of power here, yet perfectly managed and with fantastic balance. I can already see the evolution that Graetz was striving for here, trying to focus more on purity and vertical lift.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
A gorgeous red with layers of ripe fruit and finesse. Medium to full body, super-refined tannins and purity as well as polish at the close. Superb depth and balance.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
This is wonderful on the nose with orange peel and even lime. Leather and hints of cherries. Some savory rosemary undertones and smoked meat. Forest floor, too. Full-bodied, tight and focused. A serious finish that is polished, dense and fresh. Excellent structure. 80% sangiovese with colorino and canniolo. Needs three to four years to come together, but it’s already excellent.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
A linear and very focused red with medium body and fine, integrated tannins that are firm. Fantastic length and intensity. Really exciting. Gorgeous now, but a long life ahead of it.
About the Producer
Bibi Graetz is one of the best wine producers in Tuscany, which has become famous for its Soffocone di Vincigliata, Colore, Testamatta Rosso and Bianco wines. Its grapes come from vines of about 80 years of age, the autochthonous: Sangiovese, Colorino and Cannaiolo. The Bibi Graetz estate is located in Vincigliata, a small village behind the Fiesole hill.
