Wine Advisor
Bibi Graetz, Colore 2005
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Description
Colore is the highest expression of Bibi Graetz dream, from very old vineyards of Sangiovese. Poor soils mixed with sand and stone and high altitude create the perfect terroir for a wine that tells a lot about Tuscany and its ancient taste. Only the best few barrels of the whole production will become Colore.
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
In 2005 Colore was made from the three best barrels in the cellar, consisting of one each Sangiovese, Colorino and Canaiolo. Yields were a miniscule 12 hectoliters per hectare. The wine possesses perfumed aromatics that meld into a seamless palate of perfumed dark red cherries, minerals and sweet toasted oak, with a darker flavor profile than the Testamatta. This medium-bodied red offers superb poise and balance, with a long, inviting finish. It too needs bottle age to reach its fullest potential. For readers looking at the $800 price tag, that is not a typo. It does represent a completely preposterous, egregious and delusional (you get the idea) approach to pricing, especially considering that Graetz, despite his unquestioned talent, has less than a decade of history under his belt. Colore is a beautiful wine, but its intrinsic value is perhaps in the neighborhood of $80 or so. The rest of the price is simply a play on the wine's scarcity (900 bottles produced) rather than a reflection of what is truly in the bottle. I can think of an infinite number of smarter and ultimately more rewarding ways to spend $800 dollars on wine, and my guess is Wine Advocate readers can too. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Bibi Graetz's wines always make me smile because they have an almost child-like joy about them. Various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae, CA; tel. (415) 927 9463, Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200, MS Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776 6700
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
In 2005 Colore was made from the three best barrels in the cellar, consisting of one each Sangiovese, Colorino and Canaiolo. Yields were a miniscule 12 hectoliters per hectare. The wine possesses perfumed aromatics that meld into a seamless palate of dark red cherries, minerals and sweet toasted oak, with a darker flavor profile than the Testamatta. This medium-bodied red offers superb poise and balance, with a long, inviting finish. It too needs bottle age to reach its fullest potential. For readers looking at the $800 price tag, that is not a typo. It does a represent a completely preposterous, egregious and delusional (you get the idea) approach to pricing, especially considering that Graetz, despite his unquestioned talent, has less than a decade of history under his belt. Colore is a beautiful wine, but its intrinsic value is perhaps in the neighborhood of $80 or so. The rest of the price is simply a play on the wine's scarcity (900 bottles produced) rather than a reflection of what is truly in the bottle. I can think of an infinite number of smarter and ultimately more rewarding ways to spend $800 on wine, and my guess is my readers can too.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
Loads of blueberries and flowers on the nose follow through to a full body, with polished tannins and an intense finish. New wood is still showing slightly in the center palate but this is going to come together beautifully with bottle age. Made from pure Colorino from old vines on the hills overlooking Florence. Tiny production. Lovely now.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
Racy and very fine with blackberries, dark cherries and violets. Very fresh and perfumed. Medium-to full-bodied with beautiful tannins and a bright, linear finish. Purple fruit. Picked before the rains during the harvest. Drink or hold.
About the Producer
Bibi Graetz is one of the best wine producers in Tuscany, which has become famous for its Soffocone di Vincigliata, Colore, Testamatta Rosso and Bianco wines. Its grapes come from vines of about 80 years of age, the autochthonous: Sangiovese, Colorino and Cannaiolo. The Bibi Graetz estate is located in Vincigliata, a small village behind the Fiesole hill.
