Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2004

robert_parker100

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is as it has always been: virtually perfect. It is a staggeringly beautiful wine of heroic proportions, with all of the elements in the right place. The bouquet alone is head-spinning; but then the fruit conquers the palate with its sensual, beguiling beauty. The tannins are impeccable, polished and impossibly refined from start to finish. The 2004 Monfortino is shaping up to be one of the very finest wines ever made in Italy, or anywhere for that matter. Let me just say this: the 2004 Monfortino is the only wine at Conterno I did not spit on what turned out to be a magical afternoon. It was the last stop of the day, and I granted myself that one small indulgence. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2054. A visit to this immaculate cellar is always one of the highlights of a trip to Piedmont. Proprietor Roberto Conterno has a number of gorgeous wines in barrel. I tasted just about every wine in cask and was simply blown away by the quality across all of the wines. For starters, the 2009s from his newly acquired parcels in Cerretta are a step up from the 2008s. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

robert_parker100

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is drop-dead gorgeous. I have tasted the wine multiple times from barrel and three times from bottle and never been anything less than blown away. The 2004 is a subtle, layered Monfortino that captures the sheer elegance and finesse of this great vintage. It is sweet, perfumed, silky and utterly mind-blowing. From barrel it has always been a 100 point wine, but it has just been bottled and naturally a bit closed in on itself. Still, with some time in the glass its silky, perfumed fruit and dazzling class come to life. The 2004 is remarkably harmonious for such a young wine. Readers will have much fun debating which is the greatest Monfortino of recent years. Could it be the 1996, 1999 or 2002 for their huge structure and classicism? Or, is it the 1997 for its opulence? What if the dark horse 1998 and 2000 steal the show? Personally, I adore the 2001 and 2004 for their completeness, but the 2004 is the sexiest of them all. Sadly, 2004 is also the year Giovanni Conterno passed away, but one can’t escape the feeling his spirit lives in this wine. Kudos to Roberto Conterno and his team for this magnificent, thrilling Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2044. The drive from Barolo to Monforte was a little different this year. Peering across the valley over the hillside where the Conterno winery sits, the observant eye will notice a number of large barrels outside the main building. Roberto Conterno had no choice but to replace a number of his casks this year as the staves had begun to bend from many years of use, and Conterno was understandably afraid of the unthinkable, that the casks could finally yield to old age full of wine. Still, he was clearly upset by having to replace barrels that he personally moved into the new winery with his father during the summer of 1985. Just to think of the wines that were racked during that move. The 1978, 1979 and 1982 Monfortini were still in cask. To be honest, seeing the empty space in the winery as the new casks were about to arrive was quite a shock. The wines, however, were not. I tasted all of the wines currently in cask plus the new releases from bottle. My high expectations were easily surpassed. Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. Roberto Conterno has decided to give his new Nebbiolo from the Cerretta vineyard another year in barrel. At the moment Conterno is leaning towards releasing the 2009 as a Langhe Nebbiolo rather than Barolo, although that could always change. Readers who want to learn more about the 2011 harvest at Conterno may want to take a look at my video interview with Roberto Conterno. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

vinous100

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino confirms its place as one of the finest Monfortinos ever made. From magnum, it is so special. The long growing season produced a Monfortino of unusual silkiness, perfume and elegance. In many ways, the 2004 is the first modern Monfortino – the first vintage that was gorgeous right out of the gate, qualities it shares with the 2008 and 2014, also wines from later-ripening vintages. Soaring aromatics and silky tannins give the 2004 so much sheer appeal that recall the 1982. The 2004 has long been one of my favorites, as it is again on this night.

vinous100

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

I have been fortunate to taste and drink the 2004 Monfortino many times, going back to the days when the wine was in barrel. Even from the beginning, the 2004 offers striking aromatics, silky fruit and exceptional overall balance, all qualities that remain very much in evidence to this day. At a complete vertical of Monfortino from magnum going back to 1970 last year, the 2004 was one of the very finest wines, which only shows where it stands in the pantheon of Monfortinos. To be sure, vintages such as 1999 and 2002 deliver more power, but when it comes to pure finesse, the 2004 plays in a league of its own. Only the 2008 is similar in style. I imagine the 2004 Monfortino will give readers an utterly spellbinding drinking experience for the next few decades.

vinous100

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 2004 Monfortino steals the show in this flight. I have always loved the 2004 and that continues to this day. Arguably one of the most sensual, exotic and finessed Monfortinos ever made, the 2004 is all about harmony. Nothing sticks out. Instead, all I want is another taste. Then another…just to revel in the wine’s total seamlessness and profoundness. This is as good as wine gets. Not in Piedmont or Italy, but anywhere. Tasted from magnum.

vinous100

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is drop-dead gorgeous. I have tasted the wine multiple times from barrel and three times from bottle and never been anything less than blown away. The 2004 is a subtle, layered Monfortino that captures the sheer elegance and finesse of this great vintage. It is sweet, perfumed, silky and utterly mind-blowing. From barrel it has always been a 100 point wine, but it has just been bottled and naturally a bit closed in on itself. Still, with some time in the glass its silky, perfumed fruit and dazzling class come to life. The 2004 is remarkably harmonious for such a young wine. Readers will have much fun debating which is the greatest Monfortino of recent years. Could it be the 1996, 1999 or 2002 for their huge structure and classicism? Or, is it the 1997 for its opulence? What if the dark horse 1998 and 2000 steal the show? Personally, I adore the 2001 and 2004 for their completeness, but the 2004 is the sexiest of them all. Sadly, 2004 is also the year Giovanni Conterno passed away, but one can't escape the feeling his spirit lives in this wine. Kudos to Roberto Conterno and his team for this magnificent, thrilling Barolo.

vinous100

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is as it has always been: virtually perfect. It is a staggeringly beautiful wine of heroic proportions, with all of the elements in the right place. The bouquet alone is head-spinning; but then the fruit conquers the palate with its sensual, beguiling beauty. The tannins are impeccable, polished and impossibly refined from start to finish. The 2004 Monfortino is shaping up to be one of the very finest wines ever made in Italy, or anywhere for that matter. Let me just say this: the 2004 Monfortino is the only wine at Conterno I did not spit on what turned out to be a magical afternoon. It was the last stop of the day, and I granted myself that one small indulgence.

vinous98

Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer

(bottled in June of this year): Good deep, full red. Knockout nose combines primary red fruits, estery spices, violet, herbs, leather, mocha, spices and minerals. There's a depth and power to the liqueur-like red fruits that reminds me of a Bonneau wine, but with nothing cooked about it. With time in the glass, this Barolo grew brighter and more sharply delineated, with vibrant red fruits showing excellent cut and a light touch. There's a boatload of tannins here but they're beautifully buffered by the amazingly sappy fruit. The nearly endless finish is lifted by an exhilarating note of blood orange.

vinous98

Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer

Superb deep, fresh red. The fabulous nose reminded me of a great vintage of Clos de la Roche: wild black raspberry, camphor, animal fur, brown spices, wild herbs, camphor. Then sweet and hugely concentrated if a bit youthfully imploded, already displaying a texture of liquid silk. The flavors of medicinal black cherry, minerals and violet positively quiver on the palate. An impossibly fresh and wonderfully perfumed wine that finishes with lovely fine-grained tannins and outstanding lift and grip. Perhaps more like a blend of Clos de la Roche and Chambertin.

vinous97

Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer

Superb deep ruby-red. Knockout nose offers cassis, blackberry and minerals, with nuances of currant leaf, mint, juniper and truffle; a tad reduced. Supersweet but incredibly primary, even a bit youthfully simple today, with cassis and mint flavors dominating. This boasts remarkable retention of fresh fruit for a wine that's been in barrel nearly three years. Finishes with big but thoroughly ripe tannins and superb persistence.