Wine Advisor
Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1985
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1985 Barolo Monfortino possesses a deep ruby color, and a saturated bouquet of saddle leather, spices, smoked meats, herbs, and truffles. This rich, ferociously tannic, massive, backward, nearly impenetrable wine should be cellared for 8-10 years. Drink it between 2001-2025. It is a superb Monfortino. Those of you who love wine loaded with lavish new oak, sweet, crunchy fruit, and squeaky clean, simple flavors should be sure to taste this wine before you decide to buy. Though a fabulous wine, it is not for everybody. Conterno, whose wines I have followed since the mid-sixties, is unquestionably the quintessential traditionalist when it comes to Barolo. No concessions are made to modern day tastes. Consequently, his wines are among the most concentrated, as well as the most rustic and tannic. From time to time there have also been levels of volatile acidity that modern day technocrats would consider obscene, but which actually can add to the wine's complexity and character, up to a point. Giovanni Conterno is among the last to bottle his Barolos. I should note that his 1989 Barolo Cascina Francia has been bottled and may be released sooner than normal. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
1985 Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino—Medium red. The 1985 opens with a heady, alcoholic nose which is followed by layers of sweet fruit and ethereal notes that offer much pleasure. Although the 1985 offers outstanding length and purity it does not have the complexity of the very finest vintages. That said, it nevertheless delivers an unforgettable and highly enjoyable Monfortino experience. It is the most approachable of these three wines and is a great choice for drinking today. 96/drink now-2016, 02/06
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
While there will be a Barolo-Monfortino in both 1988 and 1990 (but not in 1989, curiously), the 1985 is the most recent release. A typical Monfortino, with a deep ruby color, and a saturated bouquet of saddle leather, spices, smoked meats, herbs, and truffles, this rich, ferociously tannic, massive, backward, nearly impenetrable wine should be cellared for at least another 10-35 years. The Monfortino will last for another 25-35 years. Drink it between 2001-2025. Importer: Divino, Chicago, IL.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Conterno's 1985 Barolo Riserva Monfortino remains one the most pleasurable and rewarding vintages of this wine for current drinking as it is endowed with a generous amount of super-ripe, opulent fruit.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
1985 Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino—Dark ruby. A beautiful and elegant Monfortino showing tremendous length and complexity as the wine opens up in the glass to reveal waves upon waves of dense dark fruit with superb delineation. This is drinking absolutely beautifully right now, although it is still youthful and capable of aging for another twenty years. 97 points/drink now-?, tasted 05/05
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Conterno’s Monfortino is a soft, accessible wine, showing notes of macerated cherries and alcohol on a medium bodied frame with fairly good length and freshness. Unfortunately we didn’t have great luck with the Conterno wines and this bottle was not representative of what this tremendous wine usually offers. (see Issue 3 and 4) 92 points/drink now-
About the Producer
Roberto Conterno took full control over the running of this famous estate just outside Monforte d'Alba, Piedmont, in 2003, when his father Giovanni Conterno passed away. Giovanni was the oldest son of the winery founder, Giacomo Conterno, and initially worked alongside his brother, Aldo Conterno. In 1969 the two sibling winemakers parted ways to create their own styles of Barolo. Roberto continues to practice the traditional winemaking techniques of the area, producing long-lived, earthy wines. The focus has been strictly on nebbiolo and barbera since their freisa and dolcetto vines were grubbed up. Roberto also stresses the importance of organic viticulture especially in the early years of the vines' growth. The estate is most renowned for its great Barolos, Cascina Francia and Monfortino Riserva. The latter is produced only in the very best of vintages and aged at least 7 years in large oak 'botti'. This is regarded as one of the finest Barolos produced today and by many as the finest wine made from Nebbiolo in the world.
