Wine Advisor
Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1999
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Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
1999 Barolo Riserva Monfortino—As the 1999 Monfortino is poured from the spigot and into my glass its ethereal perfume seems to fill the room. It opens with a breathtaking nose suggesting freshly cut roses, violets, tar and licorice along with generous amounts of sweet dark fruit supported by the classic structure that defines this producer’s best wines, closing with a finish that lasts an eternity. I have tasted this wine on four occasions and it remains one of the greatest young wines of my lifetime. Mere words can’t possibly describe this stunning Barolo, which is on my short list as the one of finest wines of the vintage. It is only fitting that the decade of the 1990s close with the profound 1999 Monfortino, which in time will take its place as one of the greatest Monfortinos of all time. It is a must-have wine. (96-99), 3/06 (US Importers: Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, NY; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA)
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino (from barrel)—“This is the most beautiful wine I have in the cellar right now,” says Roberto Conterno. This wine appears to have been very shut down when I first tasted it last year and I underestimated it. Today the wine is significantly more expressive and the layers of flavors have started to become filled out. The nose is ethereal, with sensations of freshly cut flowers, menthol, tar and licorice leading to flavors of sweet red fruits. Still a baby, this wine clearly has the potential to be a great Monfortino. It will be a fascinating effort to follow over the next few years. (95-97) points, 12/04
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1999 Barolo Riserva Monfortino takes things to another level, hard as that may be to believe. It is deeply expressive in its aromatics, with breathtaking nuances of roses, menthol, spices and licorice that emerge from the glass, melding seamlessly onto the palate where complex layers of dark ripe fruit captivate the taster in an endless counterpoint of aromas, flavors and sensations that are hard to fully capture with mere words. Boasting much intensity and a more full-bodied structure than the 1998, with building tannins that define the eternal finish, it is wine to taste now and over the next 6-9 months before it begins to shut down. Sampled from both bottle and magnum, it is a remarkable wine in every way, and is sure to take a place among the great Monfortinos of all time. Those fortunate enough to own Monfortinos from the recent string of vintages dating back to 1995 as well as the equally promising 2000 and 2001 will no doubt enjoy debating the merits of these remarkable wines for years and decades to come. The 1999 Monfortino remains one of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2039. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404 and The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484
About the Producer
Roberto Conterno took full control over the running of this famous estate just outside Monforte d'Alba, Piedmont, in 2003, when his father Giovanni Conterno passed away. Giovanni was the oldest son of the winery founder, Giacomo Conterno, and initially worked alongside his brother, Aldo Conterno. In 1969 the two sibling winemakers parted ways to create their own styles of Barolo. Roberto continues to practice the traditional winemaking techniques of the area, producing long-lived, earthy wines. The focus has been strictly on nebbiolo and barbera since their freisa and dolcetto vines were grubbed up. Roberto also stresses the importance of organic viticulture especially in the early years of the vines' growth. The estate is most renowned for its great Barolos, Cascina Francia and Monfortino Riserva. The latter is produced only in the very best of vintages and aged at least 7 years in large oak 'botti'. This is regarded as one of the finest Barolos produced today and by many as the finest wine made from Nebbiolo in the world.
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