Wine Advisor
Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1997
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1997 Barolo Monfortino appears to be a sexy, atypically forward wine for this estate. Dense and sexy, with abundant glycerin, and lush, seamless, black cherry, kirsch, smoke, tar, and meat-like flavors presented in a full-bodied, concentrated style. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2022. (Not yet released) Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino—Dark red. It appears that the early approachability of this wine was an illusion after all. My most recent bottle showed all the classic Monfortino notes of tar, licorice, roses, cocoa, and leather, with super-sweet dark fruit and notable concentration, but the open, generous quality that was present just a few months ago is diminishing, and this wine seems to be shutting down. Roberto Conterno confirmed that my impression is consistent with his naturally more frequent observations of this wine. 95/drink after 2012, 11/05 I have been following Conterno’s new releases for the last two years, so it was great to finally taste them in finished form. They are, amazingly, even better from bottle than they were from cask. Conterno’s 2001 Cascina Francia is the best young Cascina Francia I have ever tasted. Simply put, these are reference-point wines for the region that no one who loves Barolo will want to be without. The only problem consumers are likely to face is one of allocation of resources, as Conterno has a range of exceptional wines from recent vintages on the market today. While not inexpensive, the quality of these wines is extraordinary, and I can’t recommend them highly enough. I also include notes on some older wines I tasted during my visit to Piedmont in November 2005.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
1997 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino—Rich ruby in color, the 1997 Monfortino is an explosive wine, packed with very ripe fruit with tremendous follow-through and sustain on the palate. It is perhaps less aromatically thrilling than the 1998 or 1999. Still, this is a wine of great elegance…a majestic and tremendously enjoyable wine of the very highest level. 94 points/drink after 2007, 12/04
Reviewed by: Daniel Thomases
The 1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino might be considered Giovanni Conterno’s monument, the greatest ever made in a series which goes back all the way to the 1950s. Enormously full and ripe, layered and textured with a richness which is almost indescribable, it truly has it all, the rose petals, tar, and licorice of the nose, the succulent density of the flavors, the endless finish which rises to a crescendo of sensual authority. Strangely enough, it is already approachable, even if it will undoubtedly be good for another quarter of a century. A last piece of good news is that the 1996 version of this wine, a work of art which seemed hewn out of granite, is finally beginning to soften, open up, and show its austere magnificence. Unlike the 1997, it is a wine I would not touch for another ten years but, as in the fable of the tortoise and the hare, it is entirely possible that the former beast will win the race. It’s something of an eerie feeling to walk into this cellar and not be greeted by Giovanni Conterno, who left us for the big vineyard in the sky at the end of 2004. Nothing to worry about, however, other than a keen sense of regret for the loss of this historic figure – his son Roberto, who worked with his father for over fifteen years, is fully in charge and produced spectacularly promising wines on his own in the 2004 vintage. The house is not particularly known for its Barbera, but it is easily one of the best in the traditional style – aged in casks, not barrels – on the market. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
1997 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino (from barrel)—In 1997, the harvest was conducted in late September, three weeks earlier than in 1996. Dark ruby in color, the 1997 Monfortino is simply a tremendous wine, packed with layers and layers of rich, dark, evolved flavors of licorice, leather, and tar. Not really a wine, more like a balsamic elixir. One of the most exquisite wines I have ever tasted, this is definitely a wine worth experiencing. (94-96) points
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino—Rich ruby. Unbelievable, seductive nose of roses, sweet fruit and minerals that recalls the legendary 1982. The 1997 is massive and dense on the palate, yet penetrating, with waves of sweet dark fruit and cocoa that coat the palate seamlessly, with great structure and length underneath. A spectacular, riveting effort that is impossible to resist today. 95 points/now-?, tasted 05/05 Conterno makes two Barolos both from the Cascina Francia vineyard, one of the great monopole sites in Piedmont. The vineyard was purchased by Giovanni Conterno in 1974 and measures six hectares. Cascina Francia is made in a traditional style, with natural yeasts and temperature-controlled fermentation and maceration lasting 3-4 weeks. The wines are aged in large Slavonian oak casks and are bottled in the summer of the fourth year following the harvest. In great vintages a special selection of the best fruit is made in the vineyard and that fruit becomes the Barolo Riserva Monfortino, perhaps the single most iconic wine in all of Piedmont. Monfortino is also made with natural yeasts, although fermentation/maceration time is longer, lasting 4-5 weeks, and is carried out without the aid of temperature control. Current vintages are aged seven years in cask, but past vintages have seen as much as 10 years of cask aging before being released. Monfortino is legendary for its extraordinary longevity, which is usually measured in decades.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino (magnum) is the first wine in this tasting that I started to get to know when it was in cask. Back then it was unbelievably unctuous and exotic. Today, it is all that, and more. Red cherry jam, mocha, licorice, sweet rose petal and leather are some of many notes that open in the glass, but ultimately the 1997 is not a wine that is drunk, but one that is enjoyed as a total sensory overload.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a much more sensual, giving wine. Sumptuous, bold and racy to the core, the 1997 is every bit as alluring as it has always been. I have not seen the 1997 ever really close down since it was bottled. Rather, the 1997 has always been a Barolo of pure and total seduction, as it is tonight.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1997 Monfortino is served and all conversation suddenly stops as we taste the wine. Breathtaking aromatics leave the room rapt with attention. You can hear a pin drop. Just as thrilling on the palate, the 1997 is utterly captivating from the very first taste. The 1997 is exotic, full-bodied and viscerally thrilling to the core. What a wine! Tasted from magnum.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1997 Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino was flawless, as was Gaja's 1997 Sperss, but for very different reasons. The wines are made from vineyards that are just a few hundred yards apart. Monfortino embodies the essence of classicism, while Sperss represents the spirit of innovation. In 1997 both wines are extraordinary, as they were again on this night. What a pairing!
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
We concluded the Conterno portion of the tasting with four vintages of Monfortino, which again offered something for everyone. The 1997 is irresistible today, as is the 1990, but it is perhaps the 1988 that offers the most complete Monfortino experience today.1997 Barolo Riserva Monfortino—Rich ruby. Unbelievable, seductive nose of roses, sweet fruit and minerals that recalls the legendary 1982. The 1997 is massive and dense on the palate, yet penetrating, with waves of sweet dark fruit and cocoa that coat the palate seamlessly, with great structure and length underneath. A spectacular, riveting effort that is impossible to resist today.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Good medium red. Very ripe, ineffable nose combines raspberry, licorice, dried herbs and minerals, with a hint of reduction. Sweet, sappy and aromatic in the mouth, with flavors of candied raspberry, musky strawberry, licorice and rose petal. Shows a more roasted quality than vintages like 1999 and 2001, but this has lovely fruit, superb richness and unusual early appeal.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Medium red. Knockout musky nose explodes with red fruits, smoke and minerals. Dense and thick, with great deep sweetness. Wonderfully sweet, consistent wine. The big, sweet tannins hit the palate late, then build slowly. But there's more than enough supporting fruit on the back end. This will be an early-drinking Monfortino, but it won't even be released until 2004.
About the Producer
Roberto Conterno took full control over the running of this famous estate just outside Monforte d'Alba, Piedmont, in 2003, when his father Giovanni Conterno passed away. Giovanni was the oldest son of the winery founder, Giacomo Conterno, and initially worked alongside his brother, Aldo Conterno. In 1969 the two sibling winemakers parted ways to create their own styles of Barolo. Roberto continues to practice the traditional winemaking techniques of the area, producing long-lived, earthy wines. The focus has been strictly on nebbiolo and barbera since their freisa and dolcetto vines were grubbed up. Roberto also stresses the importance of organic viticulture especially in the early years of the vines' growth. The estate is most renowned for its great Barolos, Cascina Francia and Monfortino Riserva. The latter is produced only in the very best of vintages and aged at least 7 years in large oak 'botti'. This is regarded as one of the finest Barolos produced today and by many as the finest wine made from Nebbiolo in the world.
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