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Tasting notes

Reviewed by: Luis Gutiérrez
There were considerable issues with the 1968 Único in this tasting. One of the magnums had lost the cork, which had fallen into the wine, presumably during transport, and the wine was badly oxidized. They had brought two magnums of each vintage, and the second one of 1968 was badly corked. That was a bummer, because 1968 was also one of the greatest years from Vega Sicilia, and I was eager to try it from magnums. I've had a number of regular bottles, and they have been consistently great, lively and even young, with marked old Vega character. Given the exclusive audience that was difficult to gather together, they did the impossible to find another magnum, but it wouldn't make it in time for the tastings. But they did have a regular bottle that they poured between all the tasters; it was just enough for a taste and to realize that this is still on form and has life ahead of it. It was produced with 70% Tinto Fino, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo (white) and bottled at a good 13.5% alcohol. 45,300 bottles and 2,000 magnums produced. Artwork by Ramón Gaya Pomes.

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Released in spring, 1991, the 1968 Unico Reserva has finally arrived to America's shores. Only 45,000 bottles and 2,000 magnums were produced from yields of 26 hectoliters per hectare (less than two tons per acre). As fans of this producer have long known, the 1968 and still unreleased 1970 are considered to be the two finest Unicos produced in the post-World War II era. This black/purple-colored wine is still amazingly young. The bouquet offers up lavish quantities of cassis, new oak, earth and cedar. In the mouth, there is spectacular concentration, a rich, multi-dimensional, full-bodied texture, and gobs of glycerin, extract, and tannin in its smashingly long finish. It possesses the potential to continue to evolve, and perhaps even improve, for at least another 15-20 years! I have been told that the 1970 Unico will be released in conjunction with the Summer Olympics in Barcelona. A Christopher Cannan/Europvin Selection, various importers.

Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1968 has an enormous reputation, but on this occasion, it was outclassed by the 1962. It is noticeably deep in color compared to coeval vintages. There are notes of black cherry, cedar, liquorice and undergrowth, yet the overall effect is that the -68 seems a little -serious-. The palate is structured and masculine with slightly drier tannins than the 1962 that leads to a comparatively foursquare, sinewy, obdurate finish. Dare I say that it probably still needs more time? Something tells me I will one day encounter a better bottle than this. 45,300 bottles produced. Drink now-2020+.

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
An awesome wine! Judged only by the unevolved, saturated, dense ruby/purple color, this 27-year old wine could easily be mistaken for a 2-year old claret. The nose offers up copious aromas of sweet, jammy, black plums, black-cherries, and cassis, as well as gorgeous, smoky, vanillin, floral, and licorice scents that tease the olfactory senses with the promise of considerable thrills. Extremely full-bodied, massively rich, and unctuous, with layers of jammy fruit, adequate acidity, and moderate tannin, this huge wine's well-focused, structural component keeps everything in balance. There is a freshness, youthfulness, and extraordinary degree of promise in this amazingly young, fabulously concentrated Unico Reserva. It should take its place in wine history beside the greatest clarets of the decade of the sixties. Look for the 1968 Unico to age effortlessly for another 30+ years. An amazing wine!
About the Producer
The wines produced by Bodegas Vega-Sicilia are known as the "kings of wine" in the Spanish wine world and are among the most admired in the world. It has become Spain's most recognizable and expensive wine for over a century. In 1864, the wealthy Eloy Lecanda family acquired a vineyard on the banks of the Duero River in northwestern Spain and named it Bodegas de Lecanda (later "Bega"). Winery of Sicilia"), began a complex and wonderful saga. As early as the early days of the establishment of the garden, the Lacanda family introduced international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec from Bordeaux, France, to make up for the Spanish ace grape Tempranillo. This is also the beginning of the introduction of French varieties in Spain. At the end of the 19th century, the Vega Sicilia winery began producing its first wines, bottled and sold exclusively in the Rioja region. At this time, the Vega Sicilia winery was not well-known and the production was very limited, and it did not start to improve until the 20th century. Vega Sicilia Winery was originally called "Lacanda Winery", and later changed its name to "Antonio Herrero Winery". It was not until the early 20th century that the current winery name was finally determined. In the 1920s, some vintages from Vega Sicilia were featured in international wine festivals. From the 1940s to the 1960s, Don Jesus Anadon, a highly influential and legendary winemaker in Spain, was responsible for brewing many high-quality vintages. Until 1964, when the winery was sold to a Neumann family from the Czech Republic or Venezuela, Anato continued to work at the winery. In 1982, El Enebro S.A., a company of the Alvarez family, purchased the winery and vineyards of Vega Sicilia from Newman, and since then Vega Sicilia has been taken over by the Alvarez family . After the new owner entered the vineyard, he took a series of reform measures, including formulating a long-term development plan for the winery, adding new brewing equipment, increasing efforts to develop overseas markets, and continuing the position of chief winemaker Anato. This was seen as the most important move, and at the same time, Mariano Garcia, a young winemaker who was already well-known at the time, was hired as Anato's assistant, a decision that also created Vega Sicilia. After 20 years of glory. The current CEO of Vega Sicilia is Pablo Alvarez, an energetic and visionary manager. The winery still practices innovative winemaking techniques and produces wines of superior quality and inspiring. In addition, the estate's owner has started an exciting new project in the Toro appellation. The vineyards of Vega Sicilia are located on a 700-meter-high hillside on the south bank of the Duero River. The natural environment there is extremely harsh, with cold winters and frosty springs. It is such a harsh natural environment forging the tough nature of the vine. In addition, the sun is abundant, and the temperature difference between day and night is very large, so that the grapes can maintain sufficient acidity while ripe, and the wines produced have both good ripeness and a strong sense of structure. The vineyard has calcareous clays with excellent drainage and deep potential, ideal for growing grapes. The average age of the vines is more than 30 years, and the age of the vines in some gardens is even more than 70 years old. At the same time, in order to make the grapes get more nutrients, Vega Sicilia also pays great attention to controlling the planting amount per hectare, and the planting density is extremely high. Low, about 2,200 plants per hectare. This figure is already much lower than the regulations of the Spanish D.O., and even lower than the planting density of the Bordeaux Grand Crus. Since its establishment in 1864, Vega Sicilia Winery has been using traditional winemaking techniques in order to produce wines with the least human interference. The fermentation of the wine takes place in oak barrels, stainless steel barrels and epoxy-lined concrete vats, followed by malolactic fermentation in epoxy-lined concrete vats. The winery also uses French and American casks of varying sizes. The Unico is quite flexible, typically aged in small oak barrels (new and old) for 2-4 years, and then transferred to large oak barrels for blending and purification. Unique Collections are only made in the best vintages, and some vintages (like 1970) are said to be kept in wooden barrels for up to 16 years.