Wine Advisor
Taupenot Merme, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2017
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a primal bouquet of black cherry and crushed strawberry fruit, becoming more confit-like with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit and fine depth and poise. Crisp and taut with a pleasant brittle texture toward the finish. It needs time, but it will come good in the end. Closure is Diam 30 Organic. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a detailed, precise nose, quite understated at first, featuring morello cherries, wild strawberry, light violet petals and loamy notes that lend complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin. This is a finely tuned Charmes-Chambertin with good backbone, actually quite Mazoyères-like in style. Give it four to six years once in bottle.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a detailed, precise nose, quite understated at first, featuring morello cherries, wild strawberry, light violet petals and loamy notes that lend complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin. This is a finely tuned Charmes-Chambertin with good backbone, actually quite Mazoyères-like in style. Give it four to six years once in bottle.
About the Producer
Romain Taupenot is the ninth generation to run this family domaine in Morey-Saint-Denis. While records show his ancestors practiced viticulture as far back as the 17th century, the domaine as we know it today truly came to be after the marriage of Romain’s parents, Denise Merme and Jean Taupenot, in 1963. The domaine’s diverse vineyard sites across both the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune can be traced back to this union of holdings from the Taupenot family, based in Saint-Romain, with those belonging to the Mermes, from Morey-Saint-Denis. With 9 hectares in the Côte de Nuits and another 4.5 hectares in the Côte de Beaune, Romain and Virginie now produce nineteen different wines across seventeen appellations. A significant portion of their holdings are in premier cru and grand cru appellations, and all of their premiers crus are enviably placed. Old vines represent a significant proportion of the domaine’s holdings, with new plantings created from sélection massale cuttings of their best vines. Having farmed organically since 2001, the Taupenots seek to respect the character of each climat to yield wines of purity and grace that are faithful to their appellation of origin. Romain jokingly refers to himself as a “lazy winemaker,” prioritizing work in the vineyard in order to minimize the need for intervention in the cellar. Their hand-harvested grapes are de-stemmed and undergo a cold soak before fermentation with wild yeast, a method pioneered by the late, great Henri Jayer. Cellar operations like pigeages and remontages are gentle and performed with the goal of expressing the nuances of each site. Accordingly, commercial yeasts, bacteria, enzymes and other additives are out of the question, and new oak is used judiciously. With few exceptions, the wines are bottled unfiltered, while sulfur doses are kept to a minimum.
