Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Cerequio 2017
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Description
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo, Cerequio, Piedmont, Italy, Still, Red, 1996
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Roberto Voerzio's 2017 Barolo Cerequio comes across as washed out, with only modest depth and little expression of place. Barolos from Cerequio all have distinctive signatures, very few of which are present here. In its best vintages, the Voerzio is an exhilarating, thrilling Barolo. I see none of that here. Perhaps the 2017 will be better once the searing tannins soften. We will see.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
Extremely perfumed and beautiful, offering rose-petal and lavender aromas with some tar to the ripe cherries. Some spice, such as nutmeg, as well as light hazelnut. Fresh. Full-bodied, very tight and compact with firmness and wonderful length and focus. Consistent drive through the center of the wine. Better after 2025.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Roberto Voerzio's 2017 Barolo Cerequio comes across as washed out, with only modest depth and little expression of place. Barolos from Cerequio all have distinctive signatures, very few of which are present here. In its best vintages, the Voerzio is an exhilarating, thrilling Barolo. I see none of that here. Perhaps the 2017 will be better once the searing tannins soften. We will see.
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
