Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Cerequio 1996
View analysis
Description
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo, Cerequio, Piedmont, Italy, Still, Red, 1996
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1996 Barolo Cerequio is another big wine. Where Brunate often delivers muscle, Cerequio is all about finesse and elegance, qualities that are mostly lost because of the heavy oak treatment. Earthiness and tobacco dominate the flavor profile of this somewhat rustic Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
A lucid ruby core. The nose is very intense with dark plum, cassis, hot bricks, smoke and truffle all with wonderful definition. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte, languid tannins, quite oaky and toasty but it is in synch with the fruit. Luscious and polished with kirsch and orange liqueur on the sensuous finish that belies the tannic structure underneath. This still has some growing up to do. Drink 2010-2020. Tasted May 2009.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The opaque ruby/purple-colored 1996 Barolo Cerequio possesses extremely high tannin and extract, but it is very backward, closed and firm. Full-bodied, powerful, and rich, but broodingly backward and stubborn, it possesses all the correct component parts, but patience will be required by potential purchasers. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Importer: Viva Vino, Eddystone, PA; tel. (610) 872-1500
Reviewed by: James Suckling
A sensual and decadent wine with dried berry and meat plus hints of cedar. Full-bodied and very fresh still, yet powerful and complete. A fabulous wine. Drink now.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1996 Barolo Cerequio is another big wine. Where Brunate often delivers muscle, Cerequio is all about finesse and elegance, qualities that are mostly lost because of the heavy oak treatment. Earthiness and tobacco dominate the flavor profile of this somewhat rustic Barolo.
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
