Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Cerequio 1997
View analysis
Description
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo, Cerequio, Piedmont, Italy, Still, Red, 1996
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The freakishly opulent, black raspberry liqueur-like 1997 Barolo Cerequio is unusual, yet gorgeously eccentric. Deep, huge, thick, and oozing with glycerin and fruit, this unformed Barolo is oh, so promising. There is frightfully low acidity, mind-boggling levels of alcohol and richness in this silky wine. No doubt there is plenty of tannin lurking beneath the surface, but this wine needs to develop more delineation. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. Importer: Viva Vino, Eddystone, PA; tel. (610) 872-1500
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The paradoxical 1997 Barolo Cerequio possesses exquisite purity as well as an open-knit bouquet, but restrained, tannic, forceful, backward flavors. Dense and rich, with the vintage's thickness well-displayed, it will be at its best between 2005-2020. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
The fruit and richness to this wine is still amazing with hints of strawberry and cream. Full body, super soft tannins and a gorgeous finish. Indeed 1997 is great. Drink and enjoy.
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
