Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Brunate 2017
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2017 Barolo Brunate is redolent of black cherry, menthol, lavender, rosemary and leather. The inward, brooding energy of Brunate is somewhat present, but the vineyard signatures aren't fully developed. The 2017 comes across as a sort of half wine, its there, but only partly there. Time and aeration only serve to accentuate the wine's modest structure and lack of complexity. The Brunate is still a very good wine, but I expect a lot more from Roberto Voerzio.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
Very subtle aromas of dried strawberry with cedar and flowers that follow through to a full body with tight, linear tannins that are focused and polished. Earth, spice and stone undertones. Extremely firm and long. Succulent. Racy and driven. Needs four or five years to open.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2017 Barolo Brunate is redolent of black cherry, menthol, lavender, rosemary and leather. The inward, brooding energy of Brunate is somewhat present, but the vineyard signatures aren't fully developed. The 2017 comes across as a sort of half wine, its there, but only partly there. Time and aeration only serve to accentuate the wine's modest structure and lack of complexity. The Brunate is still a very good wine, but I expect a lot more from Roberto Voerzio.
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
