Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Brunate 1997
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1997 Barolo Brunate (magnum) is an imposing wine loaded with dark fruit, earthiness and French oak. This is an especially powerful, brooding Brunate that retains a certain element of rusticity and roughness that is out of character here, at times recalling Syrah-like notes. The wine is quite a bit fresher in magnum than in standard 750-ml bottle and should continue to age nicely on its core of dense fruit. Readers should note that magnums of this wine were never released commercially. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
My tasting notes for the 1997 Barolo Brunate begin with the word "wow." With a creme de cassis-like nose, as well as the soft, supple texture characteristic of the finest 1997s, this Barolo possesses extraordinary density, high glycerin, remarkable extract, an element of overripeness, and an exotic flamboyance. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020. Importer: Viva Vino, Eddystone, PA; tel. (610) 872-1500
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
A big wine, the dense opaque ruby/purple-colored, tannic 1997 Barolo Brunate, exhibits copious aromas of cassis, black cherry, kirsch liqueur, licorice, smoke, truffles, and new oak. Notes of coffee and chocolate emerge as the wine sits in the glass. It possesses amazing density, a lot of muscle, and a roasted character to its fruity personality. This backstrapping, full-bodied Barolo requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for 25. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1997 Barolo Brunate (magnum) is a dark, imposing wine loaded with dark fruit, earthiness and French oak. This is an especially powerful, brooding Brunate that retains a certain element of rusticity and roughness that is out of character here, at times recalling Syrah-like notes. The wine is quite a bit fresher in magnum than in standard 750-ml bottle and should continue to age nicely on its core of dense fruit. Readers should note that magnums of this wine were never released commercially.
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
