Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses Extra Brut 2004

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: David Schildknecht

From their iconic steep, south-facing, riverside vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay - acquired in 1935 - Philipponnat's strikingly beautiful 2004 Brut Clos des Goisses betrays no suggestion of alcoholic weight or opacity such as one might associate with an especially warm, fast-ripening vineyard. On the contrary, this is a bottling that combines silken feel with delicacy, refreshment, and utmost transparency to nuance. Chamomile, mint and lily-of-the-valley don't just turn heads from the rim of the glass; they waft through this wine's entire palate performance, against a greenhouse-like background of diverse if elusive flowering and leafing things. Salivary gland-tugging salinity and hints of chalk suffuse a fruit matrix of white peach, lime, red raspberry and red currant whose juicy, subtly crunchy expressions put me a bit in mind of certain supreme Nahe Rieslings. This site's reflection in the Marne River is itself iconic, but its reflection in your glass will prove kaleidoscopically spellbinding. That effect persisted during the four days I had the pleasure of following this 2004, and I suspect that subsequent bottles will prove worth following for at least a decade. The house of Philipponnat - which owns 44 prime acres in and around Mareuil-sur-Ay, its base of operations ever since having completed a new press house and cellar there in 2004 - is headed by Charles Philipponat, although it's owned by the group that controls Champagne Bruno Paillard Philipponnat. This house's Clos des Goisses estate vineyard is justly renowned, but on the occasion of my recent tasting, their extra brut "1522" - named for the year in which the first Philipponnat began farming vines, in Ay - proved almost as compelling. Importer: The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA; tel. (800) 999-4342

vinous97

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 2004 Clos des Goisses is dense and powerful in the glass, with all of the pure, unbridled energy that has always been such a signature here. Hints of lemon peel, mint, spice and crushed rocks emerge with time in the glass, but, despite its considerable beauty and unquestioned pedigree, the 2004 is frankly years away from delivering the full Clos des Goisses experience. Disgorged February 2013.

vinous96

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

Broad, ample and pure, the 2004 Clos des Goisses seems to be going through a closed period. The wine's texture an tension are evident, but all of the wine's energy is focused inward. The 2004 is without question a brilliant, striking Champagne, but it needs time in bottle. Disgorged December 2013.

vinous97

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

Champagne lovers will not want to miss the 2004 Clos des Goisses. A towering, utterly majestic wine, the 2004 captivates all of the senses with its stunning grace and pure pedigree. Clos des Goisses is often a big, broad Champagne, but not in 2004. Unusually bright, precise and chiseled, the 2004 is a Goisses that impresses for its finesse and tension. The 2004 is all about detail and nuance. The 2004 is 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, with 100% malolactic fermentation. Dosage was 4.3 grams per liter. I can't imagine opening a bottle before its 15th birthday, and even that may prove to be optimistic. The 2004 Clos des Goisses is a must-have Champagne. It's as simple as that.

vinous95

Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds

(65% pinot nor and 35% chardonnay; disgorged May, 2013): Vivid yellow. Heady, mineral-driven scents of fresh citrus and orchard fruits, white flowers, anise and iodine, with toasty lees and herbal notes coming up with air. Densely packed Meyer lemon and bitter pear skin flavors become sweeter with air and show excellent focus. The smoke and floral qualities come back on the mineral-dominated finish, which lingers with outstanding tenacity. I'll bet that this superbly balanced Champagne will reward many years of cellaring.