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Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses Extra Brut 1998
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Description
Clos des Goisses is the most powerful of all Champagnes. It is produced using grapes grown on a unique, pure chalk hillside with a 45 degree slope facing due south, in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Its name certainly reveals its true nature, in the old champagne dialect, Gois or Goisse means a very steep slope. This is always a vintage wine with a very low dosage. Vinified mainly in wooden casks with no malolactic fermentation, it is distinctively full-bodied with an exceptionally long finish. A very great wine as well as being a very great Champagne, clos des Goisses is specifically intended as an accompaniment to haute cuisine. Mineral and intense, it makes an unforgettable match for dishes with strong flavours: game, truffles, caviar and cheese.
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The estate’s 1998 Clos des Goisses could not possibly be more different than the 1999. This is a wonderfully dense, richly-textured Clos des Goisses with a deep, baritone-like expression of fruit. Ripe apricots, honey and flowers flow from the glass, followed by suggestions of smoke, mint and minerals that add further complexity as the wine opens up in the glass. This is a powerful, masculine Clos des Goisses that will repay cellaring although it is awfully hard to resist even at this early stage. The 1998 Clos des Goisses is 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, partially fermented in oak. This bottle was disgorged in March 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2023. Philipponnat makes a wide range of wines but the house’s fame rests squarely on the monumental Clos des Goisses, a Pinot-dominated Champagne that emerges from a 5.5 hectare vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Oddly enough Clos des Goisses remains a wine for insiders despite a track record few wines can match, as it is one of the most ageworthy Champagnes on the market. Quality throughout the rest of the range is less brilliant. Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Inc., Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s Clos des Goisses dinner. Disgorged February 2008, this has a soft, waxy, lanolin tinged nose with hints of peaches and cream. It just lacks the mineralite of the ’96 or the ’99. Meanwhile the palate is comparatively straightforward and easy-going compared to those aforementioned vintages, with slightly lower acidity, a more fruit-driven Clos des Goisses that lacks the intellectual aspect of this great champagne. Pleasing, but not cerebral. Drink now-2015. Tasted October 2009.
About the Producer
Philibonne Champagne's winemaking philosophy is: let nature take its course. They believe that a good winemaker does not need to carry out large-scale reforms on wine, because the personality and characteristics of grapes are all derived from nature, and any artificial modification will only affect the quality of the wine. God has given Philippine Champagne its unique soil and climate, which give its wines a unique quality and character. The rich aroma and fresh taste of Philippine Champagne make it a perfect match with a variety of cuisines, making it a favorite of many top restaurants, hotels, gourmets and connoisseurs. Philipponna has a wide range of champagnes, including Philipponnat Brut Royale Reserve, Philipponnat Brut Reserve Rosee and Philipponnat Grande Champagne. Blanc). In addition, Filippona is proud of the aged Clos des Goisses. After a long period of ageing, the Champagne Côtes de la Garcia must be freed of precipitation as required and with the personal approval of Mr. Charles Philipponnat, the current head of Champagne Philipponnat. The complex and fresh taste of the Champagne Cerro Champagne gives people a wonderful enjoyment. This wine has great ageing potential, with the oldest wines dating back to the 1940s.
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