Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses Extra Brut 1999

robert_parker91

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

A blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, disgorged in October 2007 with 4.5gms/L, this Clos des Goisses is very reserved on the nose, but develops and attractive granite minerality, a touch of smoke and flint. Good definition. The palate has a sharp entry, Braeburn apples, kiwi fruit and lime, though quite sharp and pointed on the finish (although it mellows out after an hour of opening.) Perhaps not a long-term Clos des Goisses, but beautifully crafted all the same. Drink now-2018. Tasted August 2008.

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 1999 Clos des Goisses flows from the glass with the essence of minerals, chalk, smoke, ash, white peaches, pears, flowers and sweet oak. This is a muscular, powerful wine that needs serious bottle age to come around, yet it possesses striking clarity and detail in its aromatics and flavors. Clos des Goisses is one of the most rewarding wines to drink when mature, and I have no doubt this will be another splendid version. This refined, sumptuous wine is not to be missed. Clos des Goisses is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, and 30% of the wine was fermented in oak. This bottle was disgorged in March 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024. Philipponnat makes a wide range of wines but the house’s fame rests squarely on the monumental Clos des Goisses, a Pinot-dominated Champagne that emerges from a 5.5 hectare vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Oddly enough Clos des Goisses remains a wine for insiders despite a track record few wines can match, as it is one of the most ageworthy Champagnes on the market. Quality throughout the rest of the range is less brilliant. Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Inc., Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

robert_parker92

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s Clos des Goisses dinner. Disgorged February 2008, 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay with 30% matured in oak cask, the ’99 Clos des Goisses has opened up on the nose since I last tasted it, with limestone, granite, smoke, walnut and a touch of brioche. Very good definition. The palate is taut with citric acidity: very focused with notes of green apple, orange peel, apricot and quince jus, then motes of honey. Racy towards the finish and as before, mellowing nicely with aeration in the glass. Drink now-2018. Tasted October 2009.

vinous95

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 1999 Clos des Goisses flows from the glass with the essence of minerals, chalk, smoke ash, white peaches, pears, flowers and sweet oak. This is a muscular, powerful wine that needs serious bottle age to come around, yet it possesses striking clarity and detail in its aromatics and flavors. Clos des Goisses is one of the most rewarding wines to drink when mature, and I have no doubt this will be another splendid version. This refined, sumptuous wine is not to be missed. Clos des Goisses is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, and 30% of the wine was fermented in oak. This bottle was disgorged in March 2007.

vinous95

Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds

(disgorged March 2007) Green-gold. Explosive bouquet of musky yellow fruits, cherry pit, toasted grain and minerals; there's something Jura-like about this. Deep, palate-staining mirabelle, peach pit and poached pear flavors are complicated by anise and bitter cherry skin, showing excellent grip. Finishes long and spicy, with excellent breadth. Remarkably complex and singular Champagne, with as much character as any wine I've tried in a long time, from anywhere.