Wine Advisor
Paolo Scavino, Barolo Bric del Fiasc 1990
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Scavino's 1990s are immense, statuesque wines of exceptional richness and complexity. The 1990 Barolo Bric del Fiasc boasts the most saturated color. The bouquet suggests a flattering, upfront style of wine in its complex nose of Asian spices, smoky new oak, black-cherries, and herbs. This wine possesses great density along with considerable structure and plenty of tannin. The formidable finish offers copious quantities of jammy fruit, glycerin, and heady alcohol. Drink this blockbuster Barolo between 1997-2010. Importer: a Marc di Grazia Selection, Michael Skurnick Wines, Westbury, NY.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1990 vintage may have given Scavino a little more to work with as his 1990 Barolo Bric del Fiasc (3-liter) is utterly profound. Rich, dark and sensual, the wine flows onto the palate with marvelous concentration and depth. Layers of menthol, spices, sweet roses and dark fruit swirl around in the glass as this magnificent, regal Barolo struts its stuff. A veritable fountain of youth, this towering Barolo promises to drink spectacularly well for another two decades. From a standard bottle the 1990 is approachable, but readers lucky enough to own large formats will want to find a way to wait a few more years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030. The 1989 and 1990 vintages find Enrico Scavino at a fascinating intersection between traditional and modern styles. Fermentations and macerations lasted roughly 12-14 days, while pumpovers and punchdowns were still performed manually. The malolactic fermentations were done mostly in small French oak barrels. The wines were aged first in French oak and then in larger casks, an approach similar to the one Scavino employs today. What comes through most in these wines is a decided commitment to low yields which is seen in the sheer concentration and depth of fruit.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Paolo Scavino, and more recently his daughter, have always made fabulous Barolos, as evidenced by my previous tasting notes on the 1988s, 1989s, and 1990s. However, in 1993, he began utilizing small barriques (the percentage of new wood varies according to the vineyard), pushing his wines to an even higher level of quality. While the 1993s may not possess the power, intensity, and extract of the great 1990s, qualitatively they are equals. As a postscript, I had the opportunity to taste a mini-vertical of Scavino's Barolo Bric del Fiasc, from the 1990, 1989, 1988, 1985, and 1982 vintages. All of these wines were made in the old style, without aging in small oak casks. The 1990 may be the wine with the greatest raw material. While it matches the complexity of the 1993, I do not believe Barolo can be any more concentrated than Scavino's 1990 Bric del Fiasc (rated 95+ in October, 1996). The wine is a huge, youthful Barolo of massive proportions. It is gorgeous! The 1989 and 1990 should age effortlessly for 20-30+ years. How fortunate readers owning both vintages will be to have an opportunity to compare them as they evolve.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1990 Bric del Fiasc (5-liter) could not be more different than the 1989, yet it too is a compelling Barolo. Boasting masses of rich, concentrated fruit a fat, lush personality and fine, silky tannins, it is a beautifully balanced fruit-driven wine to drink now and over the next decade. A note of alcoholic warmth provides a heady, unforgettable finish. 94/Anticipated maturity: 2006-2016. Bric del Fiasc, was first produced in 1978. The vineyard is located in Castiglione Falletto and the wines from this plot are generally the biggest and most structured of the estate’s lineup. In important vintages Bric del Fiasc requires at least several years of cellaring. Today vintages 1989 and 1990 appear to still be fresh and youthful and my guess is that recent vintages will age at least as well given that they were made from lower yields and with a much greater sense of awareness towards other factors affecting quality.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 1990 Bric del Fiasc (5-liter) could not be more different than the 1989, yet it too is a compelling Barolo. Boasting masses of rich, concentrated fruit a fat, lush personality and fine, silky tannins, it is a beautifully balanced fruit-driven wine to drink now and over the next decade. A note of alcoholic warmth provides a heady, unforgettable finish.
About the Producer
Paolo Scavino is an estate in Barolo known for its polished, elegant red wines from the Nebbiolo grape variety. The estate owns 23 hectares (57 acres) entirely within Barolo with parcels in 19 different cru vineyards in all but three of the Barolo communes. The range of nine Barolo wines is led by the Bric Dël Fiasc (from the Fiasco cru in Castiglione Falletto, and produced in both standard and Riserva bottlings), the Cannubi, and the Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata which is aged for an additional year both in large casks and in bottle, and is sourced from a cru vineyard in La Morra. The portfolio of red wines also includes a Langhe Nebbiolo, two Barbera d'Alba wines, a Dolcetto d'Alba, and a Vino Rosso blended from the younger vines grown on the estate. The Langhe Sorriso is Paulo Scavino's key white wine made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. The company was founded in 1921 in Castiglione Falleto by Lorenzo Scavino and his son Paolo. Enrico Scavino has been working in the winery since the age of ten, beginning in 1951. He now runs his estate with his daughters, who are the fourth generation.
