Wine Advisor
L'If 2015
View analysis
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Jacques Thienpont's 2015 L'If has really come together over the last two years. Rich and full-bodied on the palate, with tremendous fruit density, the 2015 is beautifully layered from start to finish. Expressive aromatics lift over a core of black cherry, chocolate, spice, espresso and new French oak. This is a big, potent wine, and yet it also exudes nuance and delineation. Simply put, the 2015 L'If is superb.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2015 L'If is a striking, super-finessed Saint-Émilion, largely because of the 30% Cabernet Franc in the blend that gives the wine its striking aromatic lift. Silky tannins wrap around a core of raspberry jam, dark cherry, spice and menthol in a mid-weight, finessed Saint-Émilion built on understatement and a real sense of feminine grace. The 2015 is still not fully formed, but it is impressive just the same. New oak is 50%.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2015 L'If, the sibling of Le Pin, of course, has a high-toned iodine-tinged bouquet with floral scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, gentle grip, nicely structured with an attractive cedar- and black-pepper-tinged finish that shows more weight and density than its peers. It is a little heady but it is still well crafted. Tasted blind at the Southwold 2015 Bordeaux tasting.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2015 L'If is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc this year and it was matured in around 50% new oak. It has a very ravishing and opulent bouquet with macerated small red cherries, blueberry and a hint of powdered chocolate, probably from the new oak, and that seems to quickly dissipate. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, a pinch of white pepper, nicely structured and showing great style on the finish. "That's bloody good," commented Fiona Morrison behind me, and I would not disagree. In fact, over five to ten minutes, this Saint Emilion gained precision and harmony. This is a strong follow-up to the 2014, although let's wait until bottling to see if it is better.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2015 L'If, the sibling of Le Pin, of course, has a high-toned iodine-tinged bouquet with floral scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, gentle grip, nicely structured with an attractive cedar- and black-pepper-tinged finish that shows more weight and density than its peers. It is a little heady but it is still well crafted. Tasted blind at the Southwold 2015 Bordeaux tasting.
About the Producer
It should perhaps come as no surprise then that Jacques, assured in his success at Le Pin, should look around for a new challenge. It may have been that he would have liked to expand his little vineyard in Pomerol, and indeed he has purchased a few rows of vines over the years. But suitable plots are hard to come by, not every parcel he purchases makes the grade anyway (especially parcels acquired on a “well, if you want that vineyard, you have to buy this one too” basis). And of course these days, this is even more expensive than it was back in the 1970s; land now changes hands at a much greater price than the ‘mere’ million francs he once paid. There is an obvious solution of course; look elsewhere in Bordeaux, where parcels of land come up for sale more often than once in a blue moon, and when they do the price tag is less eye-watering. Normally on the right bank this means Castillon, or one of the satellite appellations. To Jacques, it meant St Emilion. It was in 2010 that Jacques Thienpont decided to look beyond the borders of Pomerol for a new vineyard venture, and it was not long before he came across Château Le Haut-Plantey, a small property for sale on the plateau of St Emilion, in the Mondot secteur. Having looked through older editions of Cocks et Féret back as far as the first edition, in 1850, I can find no trace of this estate, or indeed of Château La Bouygue as it was also once known. What I have discovered, however, is that the property enjoys an enviable location, sitting just beneath the gardens of Château Troplong-Mondot, a short distance down the road from Château Bellisle-Mondotte. Jacques clearly thought the position to be good as a deal was done, and he soon found himself the proprietor of a vineyard of a decent size, complete with a few tired-looking but perfectly functional buildings. He named the new estate L’If, if being French for yew (there’s a tree theme here, as pin is French for pine), although I don’t believe there is a yew tree on the domaine (perhaps one will arrive soon). That was the easy part though. He had a lot of work on his hands if the estate was to produce something of the level of quality Jacques was hoping for. (6/8/15, updated 11/12/16)
