Wine Advisor
L'If 2018
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2018 L'If is super-impressive, even if it comes across as a bit restrained today. Ultimately, that energy will serve it well. Dark and sensual, with striking aromatic presence and fabulous balance, the 2018 dazzles from start to finish. Dark cherry, plum, spice, new leather, menthol and mocha all build in the glass. The 2018 is bold, sumptuous and full of energy. I can't wait to see how it ages. What a wine.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2018 L'If is an exceptionally beautiful Saint-Émilion. Fragrant and light on its feet, the 2018 is all finesse. A rush of rose petal, lavender, mint, spice and blue/purplish berry fruit infuse this striking, mid-weight Saint-Émilion. This is one of the more polished, understated wines of the vintage. Silky tannins add to the wine's air of sophistication. I tasted the 2018 from six separate lots and then the final blend (two times), which once again shows how important blending is as the final wine is truly greater than the sum of its parts. Cyrille Thienpont told me the grapes did not have a lot of juice at crush, so he opted for gentler winemaking and fewer pumpovers during a cuvaison that lasted 25-28 days. The blend is 74% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc, a big increase over 2016, where the Franc was 9%.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2018 L’If, which sees 50% new oak and 50% one-year-old wood, has a disarmingly lovely bouquet that veers more toward red fruit than black, offering raspberry and wild strawberry, <em>hoisin</em> and light marmalade aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and quite saline on the entry, with good tension from beginning to end. Harmonious and almost understated toward the finish, it leaves light white pepper and sage notes on the aftertaste. This is an excellent L’If that should give 12–15 years of drinking pleasure.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2018 L’If is matured in 50% new oak and 50% one-year old wood, picked between 1 and 8 October. It has a very pure and sensual bouquet with dark cherries, bergamot, a touch of hoisin developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a lovely saline note with a vibrant and quite persistent finish. This is already showing commendable cohesion. A touch of spice develops with aeration. Excellent.
Reviewed by: Lisa Perrotti-Brown
The 2018 L'If is blended of 74% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc, to be aged 12-16 months in barriques, 50% new. The wine has a pH of 3.55 and 14.5% alcohol. Deep purple-black in color, it gives up a beautiful perfume of baked raspberries, mulberries and Black Forest cake with hints of fragrant soil, rose hip tea and dusty soil. Full-bodied, rich and jam-packed with generous red and black fruits framed by velvety tannins, it has wonderful savory chocolate and licorice accents and a long, spicy finish.
About the Producer
It should perhaps come as no surprise then that Jacques, assured in his success at Le Pin, should look around for a new challenge. It may have been that he would have liked to expand his little vineyard in Pomerol, and indeed he has purchased a few rows of vines over the years. But suitable plots are hard to come by, not every parcel he purchases makes the grade anyway (especially parcels acquired on a “well, if you want that vineyard, you have to buy this one too” basis). And of course these days, this is even more expensive than it was back in the 1970s; land now changes hands at a much greater price than the ‘mere’ million francs he once paid. There is an obvious solution of course; look elsewhere in Bordeaux, where parcels of land come up for sale more often than once in a blue moon, and when they do the price tag is less eye-watering. Normally on the right bank this means Castillon, or one of the satellite appellations. To Jacques, it meant St Emilion. It was in 2010 that Jacques Thienpont decided to look beyond the borders of Pomerol for a new vineyard venture, and it was not long before he came across Château Le Haut-Plantey, a small property for sale on the plateau of St Emilion, in the Mondot secteur. Having looked through older editions of Cocks et Féret back as far as the first edition, in 1850, I can find no trace of this estate, or indeed of Château La Bouygue as it was also once known. What I have discovered, however, is that the property enjoys an enviable location, sitting just beneath the gardens of Château Troplong-Mondot, a short distance down the road from Château Bellisle-Mondotte. Jacques clearly thought the position to be good as a deal was done, and he soon found himself the proprietor of a vineyard of a decent size, complete with a few tired-looking but perfectly functional buildings. He named the new estate L’If, if being French for yew (there’s a tree theme here, as pin is French for pine), although I don’t believe there is a yew tree on the domaine (perhaps one will arrive soon). That was the easy part though. He had a lot of work on his hands if the estate was to produce something of the level of quality Jacques was hoping for. (6/8/15, updated 11/12/16)
