Joseph Drouhin, Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge 2011

robert_parker85

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. I am unsure about this bottle of Drouhin’s Beaune Clos des Mouche '11, which tasted better in the past. It exhibits some brett on the nose that slightly muffles the red berry fruit, rendering it a little rustic in style. The palate is medium-bodied with solid, ripe tannins. There is plenty of chewy red fruit here, although it feels quite stern on the structured finish that tapers off a little rapidly. I suspect another bottle would perform with more aplomb.

robert_parker89

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2011 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches, which was of Drouhin’s first vineyard to be converted to biodynamics, has a light but fresh, defined bouquet with notes of cranberry, raspberry and strawberry fruit. The palate is quite tart on the entry: lifted, slightly candied red fruit with an approachable soft landing on the finish, a hint of white pepper popping up on the aftertaste. Drink this over the next decade. Drink now-2022. It is always a pleasure to meet Veronique Drouhin, although this was actually the first time that I had visited their winery on the southern fringe of Beaune. “All the estate has been under biodynamic practices since the mid-1990s (including Chablis) and organic since 1988,” she said to me as we commenced the tasting. “We have been ECOCERT certified since 2009.” I asked her what tangible difference biodynamics have made. “The estate wines have a lot of depth and energy but what is really better is the pH,” she said. She also cited the arrival of head winemaker Jerome Faure-Brac in 2005 as another reason for the improvement in quality. Now their approach is for no compromise on the fruit and to exact precise viticulture for each vineyard. Veronique told me that their entry level Laforet aims to encapsulate the whole picture of Bourgogne. “We know the wine is consumed young so it is not heavily extracted,” she told me. “We look for a lovely fruity, round, elegant Bourgogne. You know, it is easier to make an Amoureuses than a Burgundy Rouge because of the quantity. It is aged in older barrels and it is bottled sooner than in the past.” Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

james_suckling93

Reviewed by: James Suckling

This is a pure and subtle red wine with strawberry, floral and mineral character. Full body, light tannins and a bright finish. Drink or hold.