Wine Advisor
Giacomo Fenocchio, Barolo Bussia 2017
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The Giacomo Fenocchio 2017 Barolo Bussia shows a bit more grit and intensity compared to some of the other single-vineyard expressions in this portfolio. The wine reveals a pretty garnet color with medium consistency. There are aromas of wild cherry and dried raspberry, with hints of toasted almond and camphor ash. The finish is mild and moderate in intensity although you do feel the tightness of the tannins in this vintage. They make about 25,000 of these bottles per year, which is quite a bit more than your average Barolo cru.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
Ripe strawberries and flowers on the nose with hints of iron. Full-bodied with round tannins that are very velvety and flavorful. Lots of juicy fruit. Wonderful length. Needs three to four years to come together. But impressive. Try after 2024.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2017 Barolo Bussia is elegant, layered and mysterious, all of which make it incredibly appealing. Black cherry, spice, licorice, menthol, pine and espresso all open effortlessly in the glass. Deceptively light in its mid-weight structure, the 2017 delivers tons of flavor intensity and character. There is so much to like.
About the Producer
Five generations of Fenocchios have been producing wine from their holdings in Monforte d’Alba since 1894. Most of the production was sold locally up until 1964, when the ambitious and energetic Giacomo Fenocchio took over the estate. In his quest to make the finest wines in all of Barolo, he purchased prime parcels in Cannubi and nearby Castellero, but his focus was always on what he liked to call the heart of the Barolo area, the Bussia. In April of 1989, Giacomo passed away, leaving his young son Claudio to take over all farming and winemaking duties for the estate. As Claudio explains it, it was a challenging time for Barolo. Many producers were pushing a “new way” to make Barolo, and having great commercial success; but Claudio never strayed from the path of tradition. He continued producing his wines with the time honored techniques of the classic style: organic farming, with long fermentations on the skins and aging only in large Slavonian oak casks. Today Claudio’s wines exhibit a level of terroir clarity that is only found in the top echelon of producers. If you’re looking for the next star winemaker in Italy, look no further. In October of 2014, The New York Times rated Fenocchio in second position in a tasting of 2010 Barolos – coming behind only Elio Altare and ahead of Elio Grasso, Massolino, and Vietti. Claudio now manages 14 hectares of vineyards in Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and of course, the Bussia of Monforte. Total average annual production is about 8,000 cases.
