Wine Advisor
Giacomo Fenocchio, Barolo Bussia 2011
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The 2011 Barolo Bussia reveals an easy and fresh bouquet that openly defies the heavy, warm-climate characteristics of this often challenging vintage. Wines from the greater Bussia subzone performed consistently well in this vintage. The bouquet presents breezy aromas of wild berry, cassis and dried blueberry. Subtle spice and mineral tones are followed by good structure and intensity. This wine should continue to flesh out as it continues its bottle evolution.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2011 Barolo Bussia offers plenty of immediacy, with plum, sweet red cherry, vanillin, sweet flowers and mint notes that are all pushed forward. In this range, the Bussia comes across as a bit oaky, with elevated alcohol and slightly volatile notes that detract from its overall balance.
About the Producer
Five generations of Fenocchios have been producing wine from their holdings in Monforte d’Alba since 1894. Most of the production was sold locally up until 1964, when the ambitious and energetic Giacomo Fenocchio took over the estate. In his quest to make the finest wines in all of Barolo, he purchased prime parcels in Cannubi and nearby Castellero, but his focus was always on what he liked to call the heart of the Barolo area, the Bussia. In April of 1989, Giacomo passed away, leaving his young son Claudio to take over all farming and winemaking duties for the estate. As Claudio explains it, it was a challenging time for Barolo. Many producers were pushing a “new way” to make Barolo, and having great commercial success; but Claudio never strayed from the path of tradition. He continued producing his wines with the time honored techniques of the classic style: organic farming, with long fermentations on the skins and aging only in large Slavonian oak casks. Today Claudio’s wines exhibit a level of terroir clarity that is only found in the top echelon of producers. If you’re looking for the next star winemaker in Italy, look no further. In October of 2014, The New York Times rated Fenocchio in second position in a tasting of 2010 Barolos – coming behind only Elio Altare and ahead of Elio Grasso, Massolino, and Vietti. Claudio now manages 14 hectares of vineyards in Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and of course, the Bussia of Monforte. Total average annual production is about 8,000 cases.
