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Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses is fabulous. The warmth of the year has given the Amoureuses a little more volume than normal, but without robbing it of its essential character. The 2009 possesses stunning depth in all dimensions backed up by the silkiest of tannins. This is a great showing from Christophe Roumier. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. It is a fascinating to revisit Christophe Roumier’s 2009s from bottle. The lower-end wines are marked by the year to a significantly greater extent than the top wines. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400
About the Producer
The domaine was founded in 1924 by Georges Roumier, who began domaine bottling in 1945. He was succeeded in 1957 by his son Jean-Marie and now grandson Christophe, who joined his father in 1982 and took over completely in 1992. Most of the wines are rented (en fermage) from family members although Ruchottes Chambertin is held on a share cropping deal with an external proprietor, Michel Bonnefond. The wines are seductively fruity in their youth yet with excellent ageing potential. The grapes are sorted in the vineyard, with a table de tri at the winery since 2003. They are mostly destemmed, albeit depending on vineyard and vintage, with a few more stems being used recently – then placed in wooden fermenters. The juice is given a cool soak at 15° then allowed to start naturally. The juice is punched down twice a day and temperature controlled so as not to exceed 32°C. There is no great reliance on new wood in the maturation cellar, with 15-25% being used for village wines, 25-40% for premiers crus and no more than 50% for Bonnes Mares. In recent years Christophe has been searching for, and achieving, a greater sense of precision in his wines.