Wine Advisor
Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Clos des Lambrays blossoms nicely on the mid-palate, with layers of sensual, inviting fruit. The 50% new oak is a touch prominent, one of the signs the 2009 may lack the density and structure to support long-term aging. Floral notes are woven nicely through the textured finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Clos des Lambrays is one of the very few estates I visited that had a hard time in 2009. The estate was particularly affected by hail in May. As Thierry Brouin describes it, Morey was the village that was hit hardest by hail and within Morey, the Clos was the most affected vineyard. Yields were still a reasonable 30 hectoliters per hectare, but quite a bit lower than most other producers enjoyed in this abundant harvest. The estate does not use herbicides or pesticides, and two-thirds of the parcels are worked by horse. In 2009 the harvest started on September 10. The wines were vinified in stainless steel with 100% whole bunches. I tasted the 2009s from tank, where they awaited bottling, scheduled for late March 2011. Overall, I have to say I found the 2008s quite a bit more interesting. Readers will find notes on those wines on www.erobertparker.com. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2009 Clos des Lambrays continues to shine. The self-effacing Thierry Brouin has conjured an exquisite bouquet of wild strawberry, scorched earth, small red cherries and a touch of undergrowth. Brouin’s style is to keep everything contained, natural and unpretentious and so you get a comparatively conservative Clos des Lambrays that is underpinned by light, tensile tannins, with a veneer of red fruit, not great weight but rather weightlessness that is unusual for this vintage. It is in keeping with the domaine’s approach to Pinot Noir, one that I have learned to appreciate more and more with passing years. Tasted March 2013.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Like the Morey Loups, this is very stalky and a little green on the nose (the wine is entirely whole bunch fermented.). The palate has hard tannins and distinctly peppery, severe, rather raw finish. Again, not a wine begging to be judged at this stage, bearing in mind how much the 2008 improved after bottling. Tasted January 2011.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Clos des Lambrays is ripe, radiant and totally representative of the vintage. Silky tannins frame an expressive core of fruit in this generous, open Clos des Lambrays. The 2009 possesses striking depth and tons of richness allied to a muscular personality. I underestimated the 2009 when I tasted it from barrel. Although very much in the flashy style of the year, the 2009 also has more than enough structure to support mid-term aging at the very least. A round, caressing finish leaves a lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. I found the 2009s from Clos des Lambrays showed much better from bottle than they did when I tasted them from barrel. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
About the Producer
At the heart and the summit of the estate visitors will find the eponymous Clos. There are also two plots of the Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru and four plots of the Morey-Saint-Denis village, all of them planted with Pinot noir. With the acquisition of a few “ouvrées” of Chardonnay of two “Climats” classified as Premier Cru in Puligny-Montrachet, les Folatières and the Clos du Cailleret, the estate is now complete. The estate also boasts a castle and its ancient cellar, dating back to the seventeenth century, and of one of the most beautiful gardens of the region. The garden features a three hundred year old cedar as well as orchids and a collection of roses. This classical beauty of the grounds contribute heavily to the wine’s aesthetic qualities.
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