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Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault 1er Cru Porusots 2011
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Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Porusots from Comtes-Lafon has improved since I last tasted it. It displays fine precision on the nose with touches of chalk, grilled walnuts, orange rind and citrus peel. It is intense, but very well controlled. The palate is fresh and vibrant with very well-judged acidity, lovely orange zest and subtle tropical fruit notes, with plenty of swagger and verve on the long finish. This is the most harmonious and convincing wine of this flight.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Porusots (and Dominique is adamant it is with an “s”) comes from 50-year-old vines courtesy of .96-hectares from Domaine Manuel shared with Jean-Marc Roulot. It was bottled later than the Bouchere. It has a vibrant, more animated bouquet than the Bouchere: citrus driven with lime zest and orange blossom aromas. The palate is smooth and silky on the entry: no rough edges here with delicate touches of dried apricot and quince that build to a satisfying, sumptuous honeyed finish that exudes depth and puissance. Superb. Drink now-2025. It was great to see Dominique Lafon three weeks after meeting him in Macon, this time back in Meursault. That semi-pornographic, licentious wine advertisement still hung on the office wall (those that have been there know what I mean) and a cigarette butt drooped from Dominique’s mouth, possibly the same one he lit when I bid him farewell back in Macon. If you added up all the charisma and charm in Bordeaux it still would amount to less than Dominique Lafon. I have tasted at this address for over a decade, but this marked the first time I had been presented his complete set of Premier Cru Meursault wines since his acquisition from Domaine Manuel with Jean-Marc Roulot. He remarked that possibly with the exception of a negociant, he is the only vigneron with all six top-tier Premier Crus south of the village. Dominique opened his full range of 2011s, including the Montrachet, which he avowed to polish off with a fish supper that night. How I would have loved to join him. Needless to say, this was an exemplary set of 2011s that do not disappoint. While like many others he concedes that 2010s have the upper hand and are likely to outlive them, he admires the 2011s for their approachability and charm. Importer: Becky Wassermann Selections (Le Serbet); www.leserbet.com
About the Producer
Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a renowned wine estate located in the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, France. The domain has been in the Lafon family's possession since the late 19th century, with Dominique Lafon leading the estate's operations since the 1980s. Domaine des Comtes Lafon is particularly renowned for its exceptional Chardonnay wines, which are produced from the domain's esteemed vineyards in Meursault, Volnay, and Monthélie. The estate's winemaking approach emphasizes minimal intervention, allowing the terroir to shine through in the wines. Domaine des Comtes Lafon is recognized as one of the top producers in the Mâconnais, known for its focus on quality, elegance, and minerality.
