Wine Advisor
Canon La Gaffeliere 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
An intriguing blend of nearly 50% Merlot, a whopping 35% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (a somewhat unusual combination for this region), the 2009 reminds me of the 1990. A big, inky/purple-tinged wine with just over 14% natural alcohol, it exhibits exotic, flamboyant aromas of espresso roast, incense, sweet black cherries, black currants, licorice, asphalt, barbecue smoke, Christmas fruitcake and herbs. Full-bodied with silky tannins, luscious fruit, a hedonistic yet complex personality, low acidity, noticeable tannin and enviable purity, this head-turning beauty can be enjoyed over the next 15-20 years. This has been one of my favorite St.-Emilions since the late 1980s, when proprietor Stefan Neipperg began to resurrect this once moribund estate that made so many mediocre wines in the 1960s, 1970s and early 1980s (the 1982 was shameful). It is one of hundreds of examples of properties that have been returned to life, providing Bordeaux with greater quality, diversity and recognition than it has ever had in its long history.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at Canon-la-Gaffeliere, cropped between 1st and 10th October at 34hl/ha, this is a blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 90% new oak, the bouquet takes a great deal of coaxing from the glass, reluctantly offereing blackberry, raspberry coulis, a scent of wet clay and mulberry. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, off-dry, good weight in the mouth and fine definition, perhaps a little more austere than I anticipated but I like that (the coolness of the sample accentuating the tannins here.) A touch of savoury fruit towards the grainy finish, very good length and harmony, the pH plays a fundamental role in balancing the finish and engendering such freshness. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Proprietor Stephan von Neipperg has made so many terrific wines at this estate since the late 1980s, it’s hard to say that the 2009 is going to turn out to be the finest, but did it show well on the four separate times I tasted it! A final blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc, and a whopping 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (somewhat unusual for this area of St.-Emilion), the natural alcohol was 14%. Stephane Derenoncourt is the long-time wine consultant at all of Stephan von Neipperg’s estates. Yields were shockingly low here, 28 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine is a beauty of both elegance and power. Dark ruby/purple, with notes of incense, sweet cedar, black cherry jam, cassis, and blackberry as well as licorice and subtle smoke, this wine has superb texture, a full-bodied mouthfeel, stunning concentration, and not a hard edge to be found. It is one of those remarkable 2009s with amazing power and density, but also tremendous finesse, precision, and freshness, an anomaly in itself. This wine should drink well for 15-20 years, based on the fact that the 1990, a vintage far lower in acidity and not nearly as concentrated, is still at the top of its game. Bravo! (Tasted four times.)
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London, this is warm and voluptuous on the nose, perhaps not displaying quite the delineation of say, Canon or Beausejour Becot. The palate is full-bodied with a spicy entry, very modern in style but with panache and class, a savoury tincture on the finish lending intrigue. Very fine. Tasted October 2011.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Served blind at the Southwold 2009 tasting. You cannot really argue with wines as downright sexy as this! The 2009 has a rich, sumptuous nose with pure macerated dark cherries and cassis with hints of graphite underneath. The oak is well integrated and precise. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins that are perfectly enmeshed with the fruit, lending it grace and harmony. The finish is quite backward but it is very well defined and glides to its conclusion. Tasted January 2013.
Reviewed by: Lisa Perrotti-Brown
Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Canon la Gaffeliere leaps from the glass with bold baked blackberries, plum preserves and blueberry compote notes with nuances of licorice, sweaty leather, tapenade and garrigue. It is quite mature and open in the medium-bodied mouth, with a firm, chewy frame and lively backbone, finishing with loads of savory/meaty layers.
Reviewed by: Ian d'Agata
(a blend of 55% merlot, 35% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon; 34 hectoliters per hectare; 90% new oak; 14% alcohol) Ruby-purple. Perfumed nose offers pure dark berries, herbs and licorice lifted by a peppery nuance. Then sweet and spicy in the mouth, with very good intensity of black fruit flavor and a coffee-and-chocolate impression of ripeness. Perhaps deceptively easygoing today, finishing with good fruity persistence, a touch of warmth and hints of tar and licorice.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2009 Canon-la-Gaffelière is a little loose-knit on the nose, perhaps showing a little brettanomyces, rather animally in style. The palate is medium-bodied with gently gripping tannin, quite solid with good density, the second half more introspective than the first with black fruit, cedar, graphite and tobacco notes. This is a serious Right Bank 2009 and, though it showed more promise three years ago, it should age well over the next decade. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2009 Canon-la-Gaffelière has a very attractive bouquet with truffle and smoke infused black fruit, hints of roasted chestnut, secondary aromas beginning to come through nicely. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, very well balanced with hints of black toast and white pepper filtering through. This is well defined and more persistent than some of its peers, likewise it has become more classic in style in recent years. Superb. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits' annual Ten Year On tasting.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Bright ruby-red. Jammy, exotic aromas of black raspberry and smoke; wild and slightly high-toned in a syrah way. Dense, sweet and layered, with lovely saline complexity to the ripe black raspberry flavor. Finishes sweet, plush and very long, with smooth tannins and plenty of early sex appeal.
About the Producer
Château Canon La Gaffelière is a well-regarded Premier Grand Cru Classé wine estate in the Saint-Émilion region of northeastern Bordeaux. The château is known for the elegance and finesse of its wines as much as it is for its owner: Count Stephan von Neipperg. The estate and château lies just south of Saint-Émilion town and was promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé 2012. Canon La Gaffelière's 19.5-hectare (48-acre) vineyard is a mix of clay-limestone and clay-sand soils, with predominantly sandy topsoils. These characteristics are well-suited to the grape varieties planted here with the vineyards composed of 55 percent Merlot, 40 percent Cabernet Franc and 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. At harvest, the grapes are hand-harvested and destemmed without crushing, then fermented in temperature-controlled wooden vats. They are then aged in mostly new oak barrels for up to 20 months. The Canon La Gaffelière estate began as two separate holdings in the 19th Century: Canon Boitard and La Gaffelière Boitard. They were eventually combined, and then acquired by the Von Neipperg family in 1971. Current proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg also owns La Mondotte, Clos de L'Oratoire and Château Peyreau in Saint-Émilion, plus a handful of other estates around Bordeaux.
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