Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo 2006

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

Mascarello’s 2006 Barolo boasts great purity and density in a round, harmonious expression of fruit that emerges from a mid-weight frame. Silky tannins frame the intensely fragrant, dark red fruit as this exceptionally elegant, refined Barolo shows off its pedigree. The finish is long, clean and refreshing, suggesting the wine has many years of very fine drinking in store for readers who are lucky enough to own it. Proprietor Maria-Teresa Mascarello describes 2006 as a hot year. The Nebbiolo harvest here began earlier than normal, on the 23rd of September, the same as 2005. That said, the 2006 Barolo has retained the classic, mid-weight style that readers have come to expect from Bartolo Mascarello. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. This is the strongest set of new releases I have tasted at Bartolo Mascarello in some time. I would be hard pressed to name another winery that has made such important strides in improving quality and consistency in recent years. The 2006 Barolo is fantastic, as it often is, but this year I was especially taken with the quality of the entry-level wines. Everything about Mascarello remains rigidly traditional in style, with the sole exception of barrel aging for the Barolo, which is a touch shorter than it used to be. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 2006 Barolo is flat-out great. It possesses dazzling inner perfume, intense color, beautifully nuanced fruit and a classic, austere young-Barolo profile that will allow it to age gracefully for decades. The 2006 is shaping up to be a gem. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2036. Bartolo Mascarello was a true icon in Piedmont. Although Mascarello was famous for his wines, he was at least as well known for his outspoken views on everything from winemaking to politics. Mascarello’s best wines were legendary, but the quality of what was in the bottle didn’t always live up to all of the hype. Against this backdrop, it must have been very difficult for Maria-Theresa Mascarello to take over the family winery after her father passed away a few years ago. Not only has Maria-Theresa Mascarello suceeded in living up to her father’s legacy, she has taken the wines to a new level entirely. The Baroli in particular have been nothing less than stunning here over the last few years. The rebirth of Bartolo Mascarello (the winery) is one of the great, unheralded success stories in Piedmont over the last few years. I urge readers to do whatever they can to taste these great wines. Those who have an interest should make a point to visit the winery and taste from barrel. I also include notes on the 2005 and 2006 Baroli for readers who are curious to see how the wines are developing. The only wine that is disappointing this year is the 2008 Freisa Monrobiolo. The Freisa undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle and the summer of 2009 did not provide consistently warm enough temperatures for that to happen. The Mascarello Freisa is a staunchly traditional wine and often requires an especially forgiving palate, as is the case with the 2008. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

vinous98

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

While the 2004 is a finessed wine, the 2006 Barolo is all brute power and intensity. Raw and explosive, with tons of underlying structure, the 2006 simply dazzles from the very first taste. With time in the glass, a host of dark, balsamic-inflected notes start to blossom. Even so, the 2006 is a wine to bury in the deepest corner of the cellar and forget about for at least another 5-10 years, as it is very much still on the ascent. What a wine.

vinous97

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The 2006 Barolo is one of my all time favorite Bartolo Mascarello wines. It won’t be ready to drink anytime soon. Beams of tannin give the 2006 its imposing, vertical personality. The 2006 is a Barolo for classically-leaning palates and readers who have the time to be patient. Even so, the 2006 is a utterly majestic tonight.

vinous96

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

Mascarello's 2006 Barolo boasts great purity and density in a round, harmonious expression of fruit that emerges from a mid-weight frame. Silky tannins frame the intensely fragrant, dark red fruit as this exceptionally elegant, refined Barolo shows off its pedigree. The finish is long, clean and refreshing, suggesting the wine has many years of very fine drinking in store for readers who are lucky enough to own this bottle. Proprietor Maria-Theresa Mascarello describes 2006 as a hot year. The Nebbiolo harvest here began earlier than normal, on the 23rd of September, the same as 2005. That said, the 2006 Barolo has retained the classic, mid-weight style that readers have come to expect from Bartolo Mascarello.

vinous96

Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer

(bottled in August of 2009, with the 2007 barbera) Bright medium red. Captivating nose melds dark fruits, camphor, tobacco and dried flowers. Large-scaled, rich and sweet but juicy, with great energy and compelling inner-mouth perfume; this really builds in the mouth. Wonderfully primary and fresh Barolo that offers a rare combination of silky texture and underlying power-in the style of great old vintages from this producer but with perhaps even purer and more primary flavors. The very long, rising finish features big, broad dusty tannins; clean, sweet fruit; and superb grip. As this wine opened in the glass, my score kept going up.

vinous96

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

While the 2004 is a finessed wine, the 2006 Barolo is all brute power and intensity. Raw and explosive, with tons of underlying structure, the 2006 simply dazzles from the very first taste. With time in the glass, a host of dark, balsamic-inflected notes start to blossom. Even so, the 2006 is a wine to bury in the deepest corner of the cellar and forget about for at least another 5-10 years, as it is very much still on the ascent. What a wine.