Wine Advisor
Valentini, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2005
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2005 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo opens with a gorgeous, floral nose. Ripe apricots, flowers and peaches come to life on the palate as this beautiful, textured white opens up over time. Rich and enveloping, the Trebbiano offers exceptional balance and tons of elegance, while the freshness suggests many years of highly rewarding drinking lie ahead. The 2005 is just now entering the early part of its drinking window. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Valentini is one of Italy’s most iconic producers. Tiny production, fabulous reputation and limited distribution means the wines are very well known and fiercely sought by cognoscenti but otherwise virtually unknown, at least in this country. Fortunately, it looks like that is about to change now that the estate has taken on new US representation. Valentini makes three wines, all along staunchly traditional lines. The Trebbiano is fascinating for its ageability and the way it acquires an oiliness over time that recalls white Burgundy. The Cerasuolo, a rose, needs to be drunk young, but it is one of the finest roses in all of Italy. Valentini’s Montepulciano is another magnificent wine that has a track record of aging beautifully for 25 years or more after the vintage. Production is just 4,000 bottles per year and the wine is expensive, but it is also incredibly unique. Valentini’s wines can sometimes be awkward when they are first released. In many ways these wines remind me of the Barolos of Giuseppe Mascarello in that they can be a touch disjointed, sometimes even rustic, when young, but then mature spectacularly well with many years in bottle. Proprietor Francesco Paolo Valentini releases his wines only when he is happy with the vintage, which explains the lack of 2006 and 2007 Trebbiano. Readers who can find these wines and have the patience to cellar them (except the Cerasuolo) are in for a treat. Importer: Domenico Valentino, New York, NY; tel. ( 212) 679-0822
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2005 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is a wine of uncommon elegance and pedigree, with silky tannins that frame apricots, honey, spices and earthiness. Though quite beautiful texturally, some funkiness remains in the aromas, and the wine needs quite a bit of air to come together. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Fans of this venerable property will delight in these two new releases. Unfortunately there is no Montepulciano this year. No known American importer.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
(12.5% alcohol): Green-tinged straw. Orange blossom and pear aromas are complicated by hints of fresh herbs, chamomile and chlorophyll. Juicy, spicy and intense, with crisp acidity and a spicy element of orange zest energizing mango and passion fruit flavors. Finishes clean, minerally and precise, with a minty nuance and an obvious green streak to its flavors of citrus oils and spices. The vegetal note is not for me.
About the Producer
The history of the Valentini winery dates back to 1600, when this noble family owned the estate of the same name in the province of Pescara, producing wine, oil, and wheat. Over the centuries, various family members engaged in different activities, but it was in the early 20th century that Edoardo took over management of the estate. He shifted the family's focus to producing top-quality wines, particularly Trebbiano and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which continue to be emblematic of the Valentini legacy. Today, the winery is led by Edoardo's son, Francesco Paolo, who describes himself as a “wine artisan.” He has faithfully continued his father’s traditions, striving to produce the same exceptional wines with the same enthusiasm and dedication he had from the very beginning. Francesco Paolo's approach is rooted in artisanal methods, emphasizing respect for nature and allowing the true character of the fruit to shine through. This philosophy includes not filtering the wines, using only the natural yeasts from the skins, and avoiding temperature control in the cellar. His commitment to these practices has helped maintain the winery's historic reputation and quality.
