Wine Advisor
Thibault Liger Belair, Richebourg Grand Cru 2005
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
As darkly rich and deep as are several of the wines in this year’s collection, it is perhaps not surprising that the Thibault Liger-Belair 2005 Richebourg – from 70 year-old vines that he speculates are the oldest in the appellation (though we’ve heard this before, at Lucien Le Moine) – would be in every sense dark and deep. Palate-staining bitter blackberry and cassis concentrates, roasted, singed meat, and pan juices, intense smokiness, and peaty earthiness mount a veritable siege of the palate. An oaky whiff of coconut and caramel is extraneous, but in this context hardly annoying. This is among the most powerful Pinots of the vintage, not at all charming, but signaling grand aspirations and potential if given at least a decade in the cellar. (The 2004 was scarcely less concentrated or darkly-hued, but displayed a bit more raw tannin and heat.) In this his fourth vintage, and (like his cousin at Comte Liger-Belair in Vosne-Romanee) young, ambitious in the pursuit of quality, well-traveled, and in the process of taking back family property from rental and negociant contracts, Thibault Liger-Belair is ensconced in deep, ancient, and bitterly-cold cellars in the center of Nuits-St.-Georges. He has begun pursuing a biodynamic regimen in his vineyards and has inaugurated a rigorously-controlled negociant arm (its wines labeled “Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs” and designated “S” in my listings). He says he approached 2005 with great caution lest the wines lose polish and finesse to over-extraction of tannins. Certainly the results have included some very powerful and formidably structured wines. Low sulfur and a significant inclusion of whole clusters (“depending on the circumstances and site,” he says, “- I have no system”) are among other prominent features of Liger-Belair’s approach in 2005. Also recommended: 2005 Aloxe-Corton La Toppe au Vert ($64.00; 86+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980 8802
About the Producer
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair is located in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a sub-appellation of the Cote de Nuits in Burgundy, France, and is a historic boutique estate within the appellation. Château Thibaud has 7.25 hectares of vineyards in five wine-producing villages, including Vaughan-Romanée, Vougeot, Nuits-Saint-Georges and Gevrey Chambertin. Château Thibaud is a natural winery, and its organic farming methods have been recognised by ECOCERT. In order to cultivate the best grapes through biodynamic practices, Château Thibaud closely monitors the vine's growth cycle and creates the ideal conditions for the grapes to grow, taking into account the changes in weather, the seasons and planetary movements. Each year, Château Thibaud adapts its winemaking methods and techniques to the ripeness and quality of the grapes. However, the same applies to the selection of the best and healthiest grapes, which are hand-picked and selected by hand each year. To ensure that the original flavour of the wine is not compromised, the winery adheres to the principle of minimum intervention, reducing manual work at all stages, such as the use of less cap pressing or only gentle cap pressing, controlled pumping of unfermented must, etc. In addition, the wines are matured in oak barrels for 12 to 18 months, depending on the village where the grapes are produced and the ripeness of the year. The choice of barrels is made with great care at Château Tibor. Taking into account the texture and origin of the barrels, the barrels are allowed to dry for 3 years before being used to give the wines a more refined and supple tannin profile. To ensure that the flavour of the wine is not disturbed by the oak, Château Thibaud never uses barrels that are more than half new. However, at Château Thibaud, an old barrel has a maximum life expectancy of three years. The wines are not filtered or clarified during the vinification, maturation or bottling stages, in order to preserve their full structure and natural flavours. The first vintage of Château Tippel was released in 2002 and was very well received by consumers and critics alike for its fruity, smooth tannins, fine layers and unique flavour.
