Wine Advisor
Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2009 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a very lively, floral bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, incense and iris flower. Fine delineation. The palate is surprisingly tannic and backward, quite an "insolent" Malconsorts, solid and missing a bit of Pinoté toward the finish. I have encountered other Cathiard wines with more charm. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Good medium red. Reticent but highly complex nose combines redcurrant, dried spices, coffee, milk chocolate and earth; smells rich and mellow. Large-scaled and weighty, with huge volume for premier cru. Mocha, graphite and oak notes currently overshadow primary pinot fruits. Finishes tight and rather introverted, with a touch of aggressive austerity to the strong tannins. Cathiard takes the fact that the wine is very closed now as a sign that it will age well, but I wonder if there's enough verve here to outlive the tannins. Still, this wine would appear to need a decade of cellaring.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Very good deep color. Wonderfully high-pitched aromas and flavors of sappy red fruits, Oriental spices, blood orange and bitter chocolate; it's rare to find this sort of perfume in 2009. Then compellingly sweet and sappy on the palate, saturating the mouth with flavor. A large-scaled premier cru that spreads out impressively on the finish, which features substantial but very fine tannins. Does this have the complexity and verve of the outstanding 2008? Cathiard believes this will be good young and old, but you'll need to forget the 2008, which is a real vin de garde
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2009 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a very lively, floral bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, incense and iris flower. Fine delineation. The palate is surprisingly tannic and backward, quite an "insolent" Malconsorts, solid and missing a bit of Pinoté toward the finish. I have encountered other Cathiard wines with more charm. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.
About the Producer
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard is a well-regarded family wine producer based in the village of Vosne-Romanée in Burgundy's Côte de Nuits. It is known for its highly sought-after premium-priced Pinot Noir wines from plots in premier and grand cru vineyards throughout Vosne and the surrounding appellations. The domaine's history begins with Sylvain's grandfather, who began making wine in Burgundy in the 1930s. Sylvain's father André took over the winery in 1969, and ran it through to the 1980s when Sylvain became involved. He initially rented parcels of vines from his father and other vignerons to make his own wine, before he eventually taking over the family's vineyards. In 2006 his son Sébastien joined him and the domaine took on its contemporary name of Domaine Sylvain Cathiard et Fils. All the vineyard work is done by Sylvain and his wife and his son. The domaine has roughly five hectares (12 acres) of vines spread between Vosne-Romanée, Nuit-Saint-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny, including a tiny plot in Romanée-Saint-Vivant. The most prestigious of its wines come from this grand cru vineyard, and the portfolio also includes several premier cru wines from both Nuit-St-Georges and Vosne-Romanée. Cathiard also makes village-level Vosne-Romanée and a Bourgogne Rouge, both of which command high prices.
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