Wine Advisor
Salvioni, Cerbaiola Brunello di Montalcino 2017
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola grows in intensity in the glass, with delicate aromas that are especially floral and light in character. Instead of blackberry or blackcurrant, this elegant wine delivers cassis and cranberry. Instead of overt spice, you get licorice, balsam herb and camphor ash. The Salvioni house style is ethereal and light, and although that extra vintage ripeness and concentration does register on the palate, farming and winemaking at this estate puts an emphasis on acidity over power or structure. These choices were particularly important in 2017.
Reviewed by: Eric Guido
Roses upon roses, wild strawberries, dusty cedar spice box, mint leaf and a hint of wet stone open the stage for the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino from Salvioni. This is beauty personified in wine, and it’s completely atypical for the harshly warm and dry vintage conditions. It fleshes out across the palate like fine silk, concentrated and poised, yet without a hard edge in sight, as cherries and plums give way to mounting minerality and sweet tannins toward the close. The 2017 boasts a crystalline structure and dramatic inner floral perfumes, as hints of cranberry and clove taper off. While this may not show the impeccable grace of the most classic vintages, it’s a darling all the same and has medium-term cellaring potential.
About the Producer
Surrounded by woodland, the 20 hectares of La Cerbaiola look out over the Val d’Orcia from an altitude of 420 metres, opening up like a gently sloping plateau four kilometres to the southeast of Montalcino. The air is clear, a slight breeze rustles the leaves, and on the hillside opposite the outlines of Pienza, San Quirico and Ripa d’Orcia are clearly visible. There are three small vineyards for a total of 4 hectares, each with its own characteristics: soils that vary from chalky schist to stony marl; and subtle differences of micro-climate that influence the ripening of the grapes. All the work in the vineyard is carried out by hand, with hard pruning to obtain low yields of fruit and careful selection during the manual harvest. Production is deliberately limited, to obtain the very best from a unique terroir: 10,000 bottles a year when only Brunello is made; and 15,000 for the years in which there is also some Rosso di Montalcino.
