Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Rocche dell' Annunziata Torriglione 2008
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Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Sadly, Roberto Voerzio’s 2008 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata/Torriglione is oxidized. I have seen these wines require quite a bit of air to show their best. That’s what I hoped would happen here, as the bottle I tasted for the video that accompanies this article was one of the better bottles in the room. As time passes, though, it is obvious these bottles are the victims of poor storage. Obviously, it is impossible to know where exactly these bottles were damaged, but this showing is deeply disappointing. Personally, I am appalled that I can go to the supermarket across the street from my house and buy a gallon of milk that has been stored properly. But what about a $250 bottle of Barolo from one of the world’s top growers?
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
