Wine Advisor
Roagna, Barbaresco Crichet Paje 2010
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The iconic 2010 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé doesn’t have Roagna’s name on the front label (other than a signature in script). Instead, the wine is recognized by its artwork featuring an image of workers on a labor strike with some political meaning. Luca Roagna’s grandfather bought these vines in 1953, and the first official vintage made was 1978 (even though a handful of experimental 1977 bottles may conceivably be spotted once in a blue moon). Most of the vines today are 80 years old. Luca’s father wanted to create a revolutionary wine (hence the political artwork on the font label) that would represent a break from classic Barbaresco. The idea was to create a Barbaresco designed for long cellar aging, just like its nearby cousin, Barolo. Indeed, the first thing you notice about this expression from 2010 is that the tannic structure needs more time to soften. That’s remarkable given that this wine has already completed anywhere from eight to ten (depending on the vintage) years of barrel aging. Crichët Pajé is not an officially recognized MGA cru; however, it is a single vineyard (measuring about half a hectare) planted on softly rolling hills that form an enclosed little amphitheater.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2010 Barbaresco Crichët Pajè is one of the most captivating and arrestingly beautiful wines I have ever tasted from Roagna. Intense, penetrating Nebbiolo aromatics make a strong opening statement before the 2010 literally takes over all the sense. Medium in body and yet also remarkably deep. Rose petal, kirsch, dried herbs, hard candy, mint and sweet spice develop in the glass, but it is the wine's sense of harmony that really stands out. The 2010 spent five years in cask (one less than normal), a choice that paid off handsomely.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2010 Barbaresco Crichët Pajè is one of the most captivating and arrestingly beautiful wines I have ever tasted from Roagna. Intense, penetrating Nebbiolo aromatics make a strong opening statement before the 2010 literally takes over all the sense. Medium in body and yet also remarkably deep. Rose petal, kirsch, dried herbs, hard candy, mint and sweet spice develop in the glass, but it is the wine's sense of harmony that really stands out. The 2010 spent five years in cask (one less than normal), a choice that paid off handsomely.
About the Producer
The fine estate of Roagna has long roots in the commune of Barbaresco, having been started very early in the twentieth century by Vincenzo Roagna. Vincenzo passed on the reigns to his son Giovanni Roagna, who in his turn saw his son Alfredo succeed him as the head of the estate. Today the property is run by Luca Roagna, the fifth generation of the family. Luca was born in 1980 and succeeded to winemaking for the property soon after his graduation from oenological school in 2001. The style of the estate’s wines has been carefully passed down through all five generations of Roagna family, with the wines made in a very traditional and classic style. These are deep, complex and structured wines that are built to age and handsomely reward cellaring. The heart of the Roagna estate is its six and a half hectares of vineyards in the commune of Barbaresco, most of these lying in the fine cru of Pajè. From the Pajè vineyard the Roagna family now makes three distinct cuvées, a Barbaresco “normale” labeled as Barbaresco “Pajè,” a Barbaresco Paje Vecchie Vite and “Crichët Pajè" - made from the crest of the Paje cru. In 1989 the family’s long-held aspirations of owning top level crus in Barolo comparable to their Pajè holdings in Barbaresco came true, when they purchased a parcel historically known as La Rocche e La Pira, in the fabled village of Castiglione Falletto. The vinification techniques at Roagna are still traditional though Luca has made noteworthy improvements and changes to the process. The fermentations are in cask and the macerations have gone from around thirty days to, on average, 60-90 days. The aging regimen depends a bit on the cru and vintage but go from 2-3 years to sometimes 8-10 and as much as 15-16 years for the Riserva, part of which is in cement. Luca has also switched all of their oak to the highest quality French oak that is 10cm thick – twice the thickness of a standard cask. These casks allow for a very slow and micro-oxygenation which adds to the elegance of the finished wines. In addition to their fine Barbaresco and Barolo bottlings, the property also makes a Langhe Rosso cuvée from “younger Nebbiolo vines” which in Luca’s case are under 25 years – hardly young by other producers’ standards. He also produces a chewy and intensely flavored Dolcetto, and a white wine that is a blend of 75-80% chardonnay and 20-25% Nebbiolo (vinified without the skins) which they label as Langhe Bianco Solea. The Langhe Bianco Solea is held for three years prior to release by the winery, and is a medium-full, fresh and pure white that typically offers up an aromatic blend of pear, flowers, a touch of honey and pastry cream. All of the estate’s wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
