Wine Advisor
Joseph Roty, Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Fontenys 2012
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny, which sees around 60% new wood, is robed in a deep ruby color. The new oak is dominating the aromatics at present, which makes it difficult discerning the fruit or the terroir. The palate is medium-bodied with good extraction on the entry. This has an attractive supple texture, quite spicy at first then segueing into a lovely fig-tinged finish. That new oak is a little oppressive but I suspect it will meld into the fabric of this wine with 5-6 years bottle age. Domaine Joseph Roty has a reputation for being a little “prickly” towards journalists. I probably would too if I were a winemaker. I guess it must derive from some troubled tete-a-tetes with Clive Coates many years ago and reputation spread. From my own point of view, I have always found the Roty family to be friendly and obliging of any requested visit. It is just that they are not going to lay out the red carpet – and nor should they. They are too busy working out in the vineyard, which means they have their priorities right. As usual, they had lined up samples on a table overlooking their clos of vines outside the family home. Phillipe Roty was indeed out in the vines when I called and so his mother guided me through the wines. She told me that the harvest commenced on 22 or 23 September (she could not remember exactly, but what’s 24 hours between friends?) Like everywhere else, their old vines especially were severely affected by millerandage and there was widespread coulure around Gevrey. All the fruit here is de-stemmed. You might describe the wines as erring towards more modern in style apropos ripeness levels and use of new oak, although they are extremely well crafted and as always, disprove the notion that Marsannay cannot produce great Pinot Noir. Check out Roty’s “Boivin” or “Clos de Jeu” for quite brilliant expression of this village at the northern extreme of the Cote d’Or. Their top crus can be outstanding and the 2012s offer a clutch of delicious, fruit-laden, complex wines from old vines that will age with style and grace. Roty is one of the great names of Gevrey and Philippe Roty and his team continues to quietly produce wines from the top-drawer. Importer: Wine of France (NY) and Atherton Wine Imports (www.awiwine.com) in California. Also Private Cellar, Robert Rolls, Corney & Barrow.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er Cru has a lovely nose with vivacious red berry fruit, mandarin and inkwell scents, precocious yet delineated. The palate displays well-integrated oak and fine weight. It's pretty animally in style with white pepper and touches of clove towards its supple, slightly feral finish. A feisty Fonteny! Tasted at the Southwold Burgundy dinner at Hatched restaurant.
About the Producer
The Roty family has been brewing in Burgundy for over 300 years, and the earliest time they could trace the lake was in 1710. Joseph Roty began his studies at the winery in 1968, full of talent and his own style. In the world of wine, Joseph Roty indulged in his talents, elevating the winery's reputation to its highest point. He himself became one of the greatest winemakers in Burgundy. The winery's biggest asset was the well managed vineyard, from Gevrey Chambertin to Marsannay, which he later acquired, a nearly 12 meter vineyard, Under the careful care of generations, they criticize the highest quality of local wine. Among them, three super levels of Charmes Chambertin, Mazy Chambertin, and Griottes Chambertin were purchased by Joseph Antoine, the grandfather of Joseph. The winery's precious honey is located, among which Charmes Chambertin, over 60% of the grapes were planted in 1881. After the death of the old villa owner Joseph Roty, his wife took care of his two sons, Philippe and Pierre Jean, to jointly inherit the family Industry. Joseph Roty follows a natural way of brewing, with over 70% of the vines in his berry circles being over a hundred years old, and the yield is also very low. The combination of low yield and prolonged soaking gives Roty's wine a rich oak flavor and unusual fruit depth, with occasional bitter to sweet flavors. It is also one of the best representatives of traditional Legendary red wines in this region.
