Wine Advisor
Joseph Roty, Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Fontenys 2008
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
The Roty 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys represents a jump in ripeness, textural allure, and complexity over the non-cru Gevreys that preceded it in this year’s line-up. Ripe dark berries, black pepper, cardamom, and nutmeg scent the nose and occupy a subtly creamy, palpably dense palate. Smoked meat, black tea, fruit pit, and caramelized, singed manifestations of fruit skin add complexity in a bright, chalk-dusted, focused finish. Follow it for at least a dozen years. Philippe Roty insists that because of his rigorous canopy-management and green harvesting, plus a further late summer crop-drop, rot was not the problem for him in 2008 (or for that matter in 2007). But ripeness, he readily acknowledged, was. “In 2008, we simply lacked 8 or 10 days of sunshine,” he concludes, admitting that he harvested his lesser terroirs first (beginning September 23) and his grand crus last. “Which would you want to make sure ripens, Bourgogne or Charmes Chambertin?” he asked with a rhetorical laugh. This reversal of normal procedure – when taken together with the cautious extraction Roty felt committed to buy unripe pips – resulted in a 2008 collection that is mildly disappointing in its lowest echelons and among village Gevreys, though the Marsannays continued to offer considerable interest for their modest prices, whereas they were decidedly weaker partners in 2007. (Since the 2008 hail in Marsannay hit largely in the Chenove direction, it had little effect on Roty’s locations.) Tasting at the press and halting pressing as soon as bitterness or under-ripeness were detected was, says Roty, another critical factor in rendering satisfying 2008s. Malos – other than two stubborn whites on which Roty simply gave up! – finished here on a normal schedule at the end of their first winter, and thus in no way compromised his plan to as usual bottle the wines in April. I tasted in late February a pre-assemblage set aside for me two weeks in advance of my visit because in the meantime all of the lots had been sulfured in barrel. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173
About the Producer
The Roty family has been brewing in Burgundy for over 300 years, and the earliest time they could trace the lake was in 1710. Joseph Roty began his studies at the winery in 1968, full of talent and his own style. In the world of wine, Joseph Roty indulged in his talents, elevating the winery's reputation to its highest point. He himself became one of the greatest winemakers in Burgundy. The winery's biggest asset was the well managed vineyard, from Gevrey Chambertin to Marsannay, which he later acquired, a nearly 12 meter vineyard, Under the careful care of generations, they criticize the highest quality of local wine. Among them, three super levels of Charmes Chambertin, Mazy Chambertin, and Griottes Chambertin were purchased by Joseph Antoine, the grandfather of Joseph. The winery's precious honey is located, among which Charmes Chambertin, over 60% of the grapes were planted in 1881. After the death of the old villa owner Joseph Roty, his wife took care of his two sons, Philippe and Pierre Jean, to jointly inherit the family Industry. Joseph Roty follows a natural way of brewing, with over 70% of the vines in his berry circles being over a hundred years old, and the yield is also very low. The combination of low yield and prolonged soaking gives Roty's wine a rich oak flavor and unusual fruit depth, with occasional bitter to sweet flavors. It is also one of the best representatives of traditional Legendary red wines in this region.
