Wine Advisor
Joseph Roty, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru Tres Vieilles Vignes 2005
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
From vines said to have been planted in the 1880s, the Roty 2005 Charmes Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes announces its distinction a foot away from the glass, with uncanny intensity and clarity of black fruit essences, along with ineffable mineral and animal suggestions. Tactile cinnamon spiciness, bitter-sweet herbs, and black cherry and black raspberry concentrate (fresh, yet with liqueur-like intensity, sweetness and viscosity) saturate the palate, and a dark and rising tide of mineral and carnal flavors meets the fruit and spice in a thunderous finish. There is mystery aplenty here, with the sex appeal well beneath the surface. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?). Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Full, deep red. Distinctly darker and more medicinal on the nose than the '06, offering aromas of blacker fruits, licorice, menthol, bitter chocolate and espresso; some notes of crushed wild red fruits emerged with aeration. Very densely packed and remarkably primary; considerably less evolved than the 2009, 2008 or 2007. Began supple, fine-grained and light on its feet, with dominant flavors of dark berries, crushed rock and eucalyptus (I was reminded of Chambertin) but shut down hard in the glass. Finishes classically dry and impressively long, with outstanding sappy energy and lingering violet perfume, with the serious firm tannins successfully enrobed by the wine's palate-saturating fruit. An extraordinary, very powerful wine with a great future, but don't make the mistake of drinking it anytime soon. Incidentally, when I brought up the subject of coccinelles as we tasted the 2004 Charmes, Pierre-Jean noted that the estate also saw some ladybugs in 2005, but we certainly don't feel them here. (13.85% alcohol; 3.27 pH; 32 h/h)
About the Producer
The Roty family has been brewing in Burgundy for over 300 years, and the earliest time they could trace the lake was in 1710. Joseph Roty began his studies at the winery in 1968, full of talent and his own style. In the world of wine, Joseph Roty indulged in his talents, elevating the winery's reputation to its highest point. He himself became one of the greatest winemakers in Burgundy. The winery's biggest asset was the well managed vineyard, from Gevrey Chambertin to Marsannay, which he later acquired, a nearly 12 meter vineyard, Under the careful care of generations, they criticize the highest quality of local wine. Among them, three super levels of Charmes Chambertin, Mazy Chambertin, and Griottes Chambertin were purchased by Joseph Antoine, the grandfather of Joseph. The winery's precious honey is located, among which Charmes Chambertin, over 60% of the grapes were planted in 1881. After the death of the old villa owner Joseph Roty, his wife took care of his two sons, Philippe and Pierre Jean, to jointly inherit the family Industry. Joseph Roty follows a natural way of brewing, with over 70% of the vines in his berry circles being over a hundred years old, and the yield is also very low. The combination of low yield and prolonged soaking gives Roty's wine a rich oak flavor and unusual fruit depth, with occasional bitter to sweet flavors. It is also one of the best representatives of traditional Legendary red wines in this region.
