Joseph Drouhin, Musigny Grand Cru 2008

robert_parker94

Reviewed by: David Schildknecht

Drouhin’s 2008 Musigny in expected fashion puts its stable mates in perspective with a multiplicity of ripe red berry; saline and chalky mineral; seductively floral; pungently spicy; cleanly carnal; and mysteriously scrubby and forest floor-like aromas and flavors. A near-kaleidoscopic interactivity enhances the invigoration, resonance, and refreshment of an archetypical wine of its appellation and vintage that should be well worth following for 20 years. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770