Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage Blanc 2007

robert_parker94

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted at Christies’ “Kings of the Rhone” tasting in London. This looks set to become a sublime Hermitage Blanc from J-L Chave. It has taciturn bouquet at first the elicits coaxing from the glass, but eventually offers dried honey, lavender, bees wax, lanolin and a touch of fresh ginger. The palate has a viscous entry with superb balance, just a slight oxidative note in the background imparting hints of smoke and walnut. It may warrant a higher mark in the future when it settles down. Sublime. Tasted May 2011.

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

The exuberant 2007 Hermitage Blanc reveals notes of petroleum, crushed rocks, earth, white currants and peaches, an unctuous texture, high glycerin and good acidity. This big, thick white Hermitage will not be as long lived as the 2009, but for drinking over the next two decades, it is impossible to resist. Jean-Louis and Gerard Chave opened a bottle of the 2003 Hermitage Blanc to give me an idea of how this vintage is aging. This monumental offering, which flirts with perfection, has virtually no acidity and is aging beautifully. The Chaves believe it is a repeat of what Gerard’s father made in 1929. Tasting through the different Hermitage vineyards (including Peleat, Les Beaumes, Meal, l’Ermite and Les Bessards), the lowest score any of these lots received was 94-96 (Les Beaumes). The other parcels all merited 97-100 points. The most dominant component part of Chave’s red Hermitage comes from Les Bessards, which many consider to be the greatest vineyard on Hermitage Hill. The next largest is Meal, a vineyard with a more southerly exposure. While Chave has not made their special cuvee, Cuvee Cathelin, since 2003, I suspect one will emerge from the different lots of Les Bessards that I tasted as 2009 is certainly a year where enough wine can be culled out for the Cathelin without sacrificing the monumental quality of the regular Hermitage. This looks to be one of the wines of the vintage, which is not surprising given the fact that the Chave family has more experience than just about anybody in the winemaking world (the domaine was founded in 1481 - nearly a decade before Christopher Columbus discovered America!). Importer: David Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel (213) 483-5900

robert_parker98

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

After tasting through the different vineyards that go into the 2007 Hermitage blanc (Peleat, Rocoules, Meal, and l’Ermite), this appears to be another outstanding white Hermitage, and a candidate for the white Hermitage of the vintage. Several of the cuvees, especially l’Ermite, Meal, and Rocoules, merited scores in the high 90s, and Peleat was rated in the mid-90s. Aromas of white flowers, quince, and honeyed citrus, zesty acidity, and sensational concentration make an appearance in this extraordinary white. It is a magnificent example of power combined with elegance. This 2007 white Hermitage should evolve for 25-30+ years. (Not yet released) One of my favorite true and authentic vignerons to visit is the Chave family, located in the tiny, one-horse village of Mauves, just south of Tournon. The son, Jean-Louis, is taking over the reins more and more, but his father, Gerard, is still involved even though he is officially retired. As always, these wines performed brilliantly. Readers should keep in mind that the reviews of the 2007 white Hermitage and 2007 red Hermitage are a matter of extrapolating from tasting all the separate vineyards that go into these wines. That said, the Chaves appear to be ratcheting up their quality level because of a Draconian selection process in the vineyard as well as in the winery. The Chave estate wines’ finest value is St.-Joseph (5,000 bottles produced in each vintage), which comes from hillside vines planted in pure schist just outside their home village of Mauves. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900