Wine Advisor
Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Francia 1988
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1988 and 1989 Barolo Cascina Francia Serralunga offer a rose and tar-scented nose, deep, full-bodied flavors with aggressive tannin, plenty of ripeness and glycerin, and a heady, spicy, cherry, leather, and herb-flavored finish. Drink these huge, large-scaled, full-throttle Barolos over the next 20 years. The 1989 is slightly more supple than the 1988 because of the nature of the vintage. Conterno, whose wines I have followed since the mid-sixties, is unquestionably the quintessential traditionalist when it comes to Barolo. No concessions are made to modern day tastes. Consequently, his wines are among the most concentrated, as well as the most rustic and tannic. From time to time there have also been levels of volatile acidity that modern day technocrats would consider obscene, but which actually can add to the wine's complexity and character, up to a point. Because Giovanni Conterno is among the last to bottle his Barolos, I have reviewed his current and upcoming releases, including his 1987 and 1985 luxury cuvees of Barolo called Monfortino. I should note that Conterno's 1989 Barolo Cascina Francia has been bottled and may be released sooner than normal. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1988 Barolo-Cascina Francia shares a similar rose and tar-like nose as the 1985, with deep, full-bodied flavors with aggressive tannins, plenty of ripeness and glycerin, and a heady, spicy, cherry, leather, and herb-flavored finish. Drink this huge, large-scaled, full-throttle Barolo over the next 20 years., Importer: Divino, Chicago, IL.
About the Producer
Roberto Conterno took full control over the running of this famous estate just outside Monforte d'Alba, Piedmont, in 2003, when his father Giovanni Conterno passed away. Giovanni was the oldest son of the winery founder, Giacomo Conterno, and initially worked alongside his brother, Aldo Conterno. In 1969 the two sibling winemakers parted ways to create their own styles of Barolo. Roberto continues to practice the traditional winemaking techniques of the area, producing long-lived, earthy wines. The focus has been strictly on nebbiolo and barbera since their freisa and dolcetto vines were grubbed up. Roberto also stresses the importance of organic viticulture especially in the early years of the vines' growth. The estate is most renowned for its great Barolos, Cascina Francia and Monfortino Riserva. The latter is produced only in the very best of vintages and aged at least 7 years in large oak 'botti'. This is regarded as one of the finest Barolos produced today and by many as the finest wine made from Nebbiolo in the world.
1961(2)
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