Wine Advisor
Gaja, Barolo Sperss 2001
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Description
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Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2001 Sperss is the alter ego to the Conteisa. It is a decidedly powerful, virile wine with plenty of Serralunga muscle in its powerful, brooding personality. Tobacco, mint, crushed flowers, licorice and leather are some of the notes that add complexity and depth to the dark fruit. Layers of flavor build to the explosive finish. Readers will have to be patient with the Sperss. All it needs is time. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Angelo Gaja isn’t the talkative type too often these days. Most of the time I am greeted, left alone in a room to taste, and then greeted again before I leave. On this day, though, Gaja started talking about vintages, and in particular the misconception that wines from hot years don’t age. Gaja cited 1961, a warm year in Piedmont, and one of the most legendary at the time. The wines aged just fine, added Gaja. What struck me most, though, was how clear Gaja’s recollection was of events that transpired fifty years ago. I know only one other person in Piedmont who has a similarly sharp memory that goes that far back. What does that have to do with these 2001s? Not much, except that it seemed like an interesting anecdote to share. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
More muscular than the Conteisa, the dark and brooding 2001 Sperss displays much Serralunga character in its complex nose of tar, licorice, underbrush and new oak. Superbly well-balanced, it offers tremendous length and purity in its sweet dark fruit, plum, prune and cassis flavors, closing with a very long, fresh finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2031. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
About the Producer
Located in the Barbaresco region of Piedmont, Italy, Gaja was founded in 1859 by Giovanni Gaja and is still owned by the Gaja family. For generations, the Gaja family has worked tirelessly to achieve the five-star rating in the 2013 Vini d'Italia. In 1961, Angelo Gaja, Giovanni's son, gradually took over the winery's affairs from his father. Angelo studied winemaking at university and obtained a doctorate in economics. Since taking charge of the estate, Angelo has travelled extensively to France (particularly the great Burgundy estates) and has been inspired to make bold changes to the estate. Not only did he emphasise Green Harvest and yield control in the management of the vineyards to achieve high quality wines, but he also pioneered the introduction of Bordeaux grape varieties and advanced winemaking equipment such as temperature-controlled fermenters and French oak barrels, as well as the creative introduction of single-vineyard wines, and is therefore considered to be a pioneer of the modern Italian style of wine, and has made an indelible contribution to the international reputation of Piedmont and indeed Italy. He is also regarded as a pioneer of modern Italian wines and has made an indelible contribution to the international reputation of Piedmont and Italy. The winery has a number of vineyards, including three of the better known single vineyards in Barbaresco - Sori San Lorenzo, Sori Tildin and Costa Russi - where the most popular Piedmontese grape variety, Nebbiolo, is grown. Nebbiolo, the most popular red grape variety in Piedmont. Sori San Lorenzo is a vineyard bought from the parish of Alba and named after the patron saint of the Alba Cathedral, while Russi is the nickname of the former owner. The vineyards were expanded and in 1988 the winery acquired Marenca & Rivette in the Barolo appellation and began producing Barolo wines; in 1994 it acquired Pieve Santa Restituta in the Montalcino appellation of Tuscany; and in 1996 it acquired the Pieve Santa Restituta in the Tuscany appellation. In 2000, Angelo Gaja broke with tradition by blending a small portion of Barbera with Nebbiolo to make Barbaresco, a controversial move at the time. 2016 On 1 July, Gaia Gaja, the eldest daughter of Angelo, announced to the public that the three single vineyards of the Gaja estate - Surrey San Lorenzo, Surrey Tintin and Ross Coast - would be used as specific appellations for the Gaja Barbaresco wines, which must The Barbaresco wines will be made from 100% Nebbiolo. This initiative ushers in a new era for Château Gaja. The wines produced by Château Gaja are of different styles and of outstanding quality. The Gaja Barbaresco DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) is the best of the Barbaresco wines and has developed into one of Italy's famous "Four Jasons". In addition, Gaja has produced three single-vineyard Barbaresco wines using grapes from the Surrey San Lorenzo, Surrey Tintin and Costa Rossa vineyards, which have also received high marks from many renowned wine critics. The Gaja Sori San Lorenzo Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy, the first single-vineyard wine to be released, is the most powerful of the estate's single-vineyard wines, receiving full marks for the 2013 vintage from James Suckling. The 2013 vintage received a perfect score from James Suckling.
