Wine Advisor
Gaja, Barolo Sperss 1998
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1998 Sperss reveals a perfume of black fruits, truffles, earth, and spice box. Dense, massive yet seamless, this beautifully integrated wine possesses low acidity as well as a terrific finish. Although evolved and delicious for such a youthful Barolo, it will age well for 20-25 years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
One of the things I have learned over the years is that you can count on Angelo Gaja to make a strong showing in just about any tasting. Yes, I know, Sperss is not Barolo (a small percentage of Barbera is added), but at its core the wine captures the essence of Serralunga and is as representative of these hillside vineyards as any Barolo. Dark tar, smoke, leather, spices, menthol and black cherries all make an appearance in this muscular, full-throttle wine. While the vast majority of 1998 Barolos can be enjoyed today, the 1998 Sperss could use another few years in the cellar. It isn’t a crime to open a bottle today, but this is one of the few 1998s that still has upside potential. Simply put, the 1998 Sperss is a jewel. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2023. Incidentally, I tasted through the entire 1998 Gaja lineup last year for the 7th Edition of Parker’s Wine Buyers’ Guide and found all the wines outstanding. Highlights included Sori San Lorenzo and Sori Tildin, which along with Sperss, are terrific wines.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Fantastic, promising nose of tar, licorice, minerals, and toasted oak. This mid-weight wine is fairly soft, but is also totally shut down and inexpressive on the palate today and seems to be at an awkward stage in its development.
About the Producer
Located in the Barbaresco region of Piedmont, Italy, Gaja was founded in 1859 by Giovanni Gaja and is still owned by the Gaja family. For generations, the Gaja family has worked tirelessly to achieve the five-star rating in the 2013 Vini d'Italia. In 1961, Angelo Gaja, Giovanni's son, gradually took over the winery's affairs from his father. Angelo studied winemaking at university and obtained a doctorate in economics. Since taking charge of the estate, Angelo has travelled extensively to France (particularly the great Burgundy estates) and has been inspired to make bold changes to the estate. Not only did he emphasise Green Harvest and yield control in the management of the vineyards to achieve high quality wines, but he also pioneered the introduction of Bordeaux grape varieties and advanced winemaking equipment such as temperature-controlled fermenters and French oak barrels, as well as the creative introduction of single-vineyard wines, and is therefore considered to be a pioneer of the modern Italian style of wine, and has made an indelible contribution to the international reputation of Piedmont and indeed Italy. He is also regarded as a pioneer of modern Italian wines and has made an indelible contribution to the international reputation of Piedmont and Italy. The winery has a number of vineyards, including three of the better known single vineyards in Barbaresco - Sori San Lorenzo, Sori Tildin and Costa Russi - where the most popular Piedmontese grape variety, Nebbiolo, is grown. Nebbiolo, the most popular red grape variety in Piedmont. Sori San Lorenzo is a vineyard bought from the parish of Alba and named after the patron saint of the Alba Cathedral, while Russi is the nickname of the former owner. The vineyards were expanded and in 1988 the winery acquired Marenca & Rivette in the Barolo appellation and began producing Barolo wines; in 1994 it acquired Pieve Santa Restituta in the Montalcino appellation of Tuscany; and in 1996 it acquired the Pieve Santa Restituta in the Tuscany appellation. In 2000, Angelo Gaja broke with tradition by blending a small portion of Barbera with Nebbiolo to make Barbaresco, a controversial move at the time. 2016 On 1 July, Gaia Gaja, the eldest daughter of Angelo, announced to the public that the three single vineyards of the Gaja estate - Surrey San Lorenzo, Surrey Tintin and Ross Coast - would be used as specific appellations for the Gaja Barbaresco wines, which must The Barbaresco wines will be made from 100% Nebbiolo. This initiative ushers in a new era for Château Gaja. The wines produced by Château Gaja are of different styles and of outstanding quality. The Gaja Barbaresco DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) is the best of the Barbaresco wines and has developed into one of Italy's famous "Four Jasons". In addition, Gaja has produced three single-vineyard Barbaresco wines using grapes from the Surrey San Lorenzo, Surrey Tintin and Costa Rossa vineyards, which have also received high marks from many renowned wine critics. The Gaja Sori San Lorenzo Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy, the first single-vineyard wine to be released, is the most powerful of the estate's single-vineyard wines, receiving full marks for the 2013 vintage from James Suckling. The 2013 vintage received a perfect score from James Suckling.
