Wine Advisor
Gaja, Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo 2004
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Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2004 Sori San Lorenzo is a drop-dead gorgeous wine. It presents awesome balance, especially in the way it marries power with elegance. This is a remarkably refined and understated Sori San Lorenzo, with never-ending layers of dark raspberries, licorice, grilled herbs and tar that flow from its sumptuous frame. A dark, brooding beauty, it will require several additional years of bottle at a minimum, but those with the patience to wait will be amply rewarded. In most vintages I prefer the Sori Tildin, but in 2004 Sori San Lorenzo has a very slight edge over its sibling. It may very well be the finest Sori San Lorenzo since the legendary 1971. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Angelo Gaja and long-time oenologist Guido Rivella produced some of the most monumental wines of their long, storied partnership in 2004. Although I admire Gaja’s wines, especially for their consistency, I rarely find them this emotionally moving and utterly profound. The stable weather and cool, tempering evenings towards the end of the growing season allowed Gaja and Rivella to harvest fairly late in 2004. I remember passing by Gaja’s Barbaresco vineyards in October of that year and seeing fruit still waiting to be picked long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. Gaja’s 2004s from Barbaresco are especially breathtaking for their clarity and precision. The wines also seem less internationally-styled than in the past. Readers fortunate enough to possess the means to acquire these wines won’t want to miss them! The 2003s from the Barolo zones of La Morra and Serralunga are also strong efforts considering the vintage. “Historically in Piedmont there has been an inverse relationship between quality and quantity. Great vintages like 1961 and 1989 were characterized by low yields,” says Gaja. “2004 is one of those rare vintages like 1964 and 1990 where quality is high even though yields were generous as well. I think 2004 is a very elegant vintage. It is much easier to achieve opulence in the wines, but finesse is always much more elusive.” Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900
About the Producer
Located in the Barbaresco region of Piedmont, Italy, Gaja was founded in 1859 by Giovanni Gaja and is still owned by the Gaja family. For generations, the Gaja family has worked tirelessly to achieve the five-star rating in the 2013 Vini d'Italia. In 1961, Angelo Gaja, Giovanni's son, gradually took over the winery's affairs from his father. Angelo studied winemaking at university and obtained a doctorate in economics. Since taking charge of the estate, Angelo has travelled extensively to France (particularly the great Burgundy estates) and has been inspired to make bold changes to the estate. Not only did he emphasise Green Harvest and yield control in the management of the vineyards to achieve high quality wines, but he also pioneered the introduction of Bordeaux grape varieties and advanced winemaking equipment such as temperature-controlled fermenters and French oak barrels, as well as the creative introduction of single-vineyard wines, and is therefore considered to be a pioneer of the modern Italian style of wine, and has made an indelible contribution to the international reputation of Piedmont and indeed Italy. He is also regarded as a pioneer of modern Italian wines and has made an indelible contribution to the international reputation of Piedmont and Italy. The winery has a number of vineyards, including three of the better known single vineyards in Barbaresco - Sori San Lorenzo, Sori Tildin and Costa Russi - where the most popular Piedmontese grape variety, Nebbiolo, is grown. Nebbiolo, the most popular red grape variety in Piedmont. Sori San Lorenzo is a vineyard bought from the parish of Alba and named after the patron saint of the Alba Cathedral, while Russi is the nickname of the former owner. The vineyards were expanded and in 1988 the winery acquired Marenca & Rivette in the Barolo appellation and began producing Barolo wines; in 1994 it acquired Pieve Santa Restituta in the Montalcino appellation of Tuscany; and in 1996 it acquired the Pieve Santa Restituta in the Tuscany appellation. In 2000, Angelo Gaja broke with tradition by blending a small portion of Barbera with Nebbiolo to make Barbaresco, a controversial move at the time. 2016 On 1 July, Gaia Gaja, the eldest daughter of Angelo, announced to the public that the three single vineyards of the Gaja estate - Surrey San Lorenzo, Surrey Tintin and Ross Coast - would be used as specific appellations for the Gaja Barbaresco wines, which must The Barbaresco wines will be made from 100% Nebbiolo. This initiative ushers in a new era for Château Gaja. The wines produced by Château Gaja are of different styles and of outstanding quality. The Gaja Barbaresco DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) is the best of the Barbaresco wines and has developed into one of Italy's famous "Four Jasons". In addition, Gaja has produced three single-vineyard Barbaresco wines using grapes from the Surrey San Lorenzo, Surrey Tintin and Costa Rossa vineyards, which have also received high marks from many renowned wine critics. The Gaja Sori San Lorenzo Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy, the first single-vineyard wine to be released, is the most powerful of the estate's single-vineyard wines, receiving full marks for the 2013 vintage from James Suckling. The 2013 vintage received a perfect score from James Suckling.
