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Reviewed by: Pierre Rovani
The Domaine de la Romanee-Conti’s policy of late harvests for their Montrachet leads to forward, expressive wines with boisterously flavorful personalities. The spice box-scented 2000 Montrachet is a huge, medium-bodied, luscious wine. Buttered, super-ripe apples, poached pears, honeyed minerals, and countless spices can be discerned in its extravagant personality. Rich, deep, and dense, it is the sexiest, most seductive Montrachet I’ve encountered. Projected maturity: now-2010. According to Aubert de Villaine, the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti’s co-director, “2000 was a particularly difficult vintage with lots of rot throughout all the vineyards. Rot is simply a sorting problem, and for that we are very well equipped. The sugar levels were very nice, but the grapes did not have the phenolic ripeness of 1999 or 2001. Ultimately, 2000 is the absolute opposite of 1999 at the Domaine since the wines are feminine and delicate. They are wines for connoisseurs, like a cross between 1992 and 1995. In fact, I’d say they are like 1992 but with more volume and fruit.” None of the Domaine’s 2000s are recommended as they were found to be lean, rustic, hard, and backward. In addition, two of the wines had vegetal characteristics and another two may have been tainted with rot. Those readers who are always looking for news concerning the next vintage will be interested to hear the following. Unlike almost all his colleagues who said that 2002 was going to be a spectacular vintage, de Villaine informed me that it would “another irregular year.” Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661
About the Producer
The Domaine de la Romanée-Conti or DRC is one of the most prestigious wine estates in the world with 25.5 hectares mostly in Vosne-Romanée on the route des Grands Crus in the vineyards of the Côte de Nuits of the Burgundy vineyards (named after the 1.8 hectare Clos de la Romanée-Conti, one of the most prestigious mythical grands crus in the world). The civil company of the same name was founded in 1942 by Edmond Gaudin de Villaine. It is now co-managed for their heir family by the winegrowers Aubert de Villaine and Perrine Fenal.