Wine Advisor
Clos St Jean, Chateauneuf Du Pape Deus Ex Machina 2003
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
The 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus ex Machina is a wine that can hit perfection on any given day. In this lineup, it seems just slightly behind the off-the-charts, 2010, 2007 and 2005. Just now starting to show hints of maturity (bottles from my cellar show more evolution than this one), it’s an incredible Chateauneuf that offers textbook kirsch, licorice, graphite, blackcurrants and spice to go with a full-bodied, layered and voluptuously-styled feel on the palate. Like the other 2003 from this estate, it shows no signs over ripeness, possesses sweet tannin and beautiful purity. I’d drink it over the coming 3-5 years, but it will evolve for longer. Since taking control of the estate in 2002, and bringing on board rock star consultant Philippe Cambie, the Maurel brothers has been knocking it out of the park in literally every vintage. 2004? Gorgeous wines and easily at the top in a recent retrospective. The cooler, rainy 2008? Beautiful ripeness and texture, and again, at the top of the hierarchy. 2011 is the same story, and it’s amazing what this team has accomplished in all of their vintages. Looking at this retrospective, we went through all of their cuvees going back to 2003. Unfortunately, there’s no new information here, and this tasting simply confirmed what myself and Robert Parker have been saying for some time now; Clos Saint Jean is at the top of their game and producing some of the most singular, hedonistic and brilliant wines in the world. Starting out with the classic Chateauneuf du Pape, it’s normally a blend of 75% Grenache, with the balance a mix of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Muscardin and Vaccarese. As is common at this estate, the Grenache is aged all in tank, and the other varieties in a mix of tank and barrels. While I think this cuvee always lags the Vieilles Vignes bottling, it is consistently outstanding and always a super value. Moving to the old vine cuvee, this is made especially for the US Market and is 85% tank aged, old vine Grenache, and the balance Syrah and Mourvedre. It too almost always represents a crazy value and has a broad drink window. I’m currently finishing up a case of the ’08, and purchased two cases of the 2010, which is just starting to open back up after closing down shortly after release. As to the Combe des Fous release, this cuvée comes from a single plot of vines and is based largely on Grenache, with roughly 20% Syrah and 10% each of Vaccarese and Cinsault in the blend. The Grenache is aged all in tank and the other components see time in mostly demi-muids. While the Deux ex Machina always impresses more with its overt power and muscle, this cuvee always seems more polished, fine and elegant to me. One of the greatest cuvees on earth, the Maurel brother’s Sanctus Sanctorum is 100% Grenache that comes from a single plot of vines in the La Crau lieu dit. Aged all in demi-muid, it’s been one of the greatest wines I’ve ever tasted, every time I’ve tasted it. All three of these were sheer perfection on this occasion, yet each has its own unique profile. Lastly, and always the most powerful of the cuvees, the Deus Ex Machina is a blend of 60% tank aged Grenache and 40% demi-muid aged Mourvedre that all comes from 70-100 year old vines. The Mourvedre component is really what defines this cuvee, and it possesses the most obvious structure and mid-palate richness in the lineup. Seeming to hit maturity around age 10 or so, it can be consumed relatively early in its life due to its wealth of fruit, texture, and incredibly polished tannin. In addition, don’t miss this cuvee in the lighter vintages, as even their 2004 and 2008 show classic character and no shortage of richness. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
Even better than the La Combe des Fous and representing the essence of the southern Rhone, with notions of beef blood, ground pepper, melted licorice and kirsch liqueur, the 2003 Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf du Pape Deus-Ex Machina is broad-shouldered and structured on the palate, with a meaty chewiness to its texture, masses of ripe tannin and blockbuster length on the finish. Seamless, decadently rich, yet also weightless, it is a monumental Chateauneuf du Pape that will stand with the greatest wines of the world. It will continue to evolve gracefully, but why wait.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The thrilling 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus-Ex Machina is a candidate for the appellation’s “wine of the vintage.” A barrique-aged blend of Mourvedre and Grenache, it boasts an inky/ruby/purple color as well as explosive ripeness, powerful creme de cassis, raspberry, cherry, melted licorice, smoke, and espresso characteristics, huge body, admirable purity, moderately high tannin, and abundant quantities of glycerin, alcohol, and concentration. This impressive, sumptuous Chateauneuf du Pape will be at its finest between 2007-2020. Kudos to Clos Saint-Jean and oenologist Philippe Cambie for fashioning some of the best wines of the vintage! Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The richest and most structured wine, and also the deepest in color (a dark purple) is the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus-Ex Machina. They should have called it “the sex machine.” An explosive nose of blackberries, sweet cherries, melted licorice, smoke and resiny notes is followed by a broad, expansive, full-bodied wine with moderate tannin, massive fruit, and a huge finish that lasts for almost 40+ seconds. This is stunning wine that can be drunk early on or cellared for up to 15 or more years. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
Deep, saturated red. Powerful, well-focused aromas of kirsch, loamy earth, game, roasted coffee, bitter chocolate and candied licorice. Dense, rich and sweet, with strongly extracted dark fruit character that emerges after some coaxing. The thick, slow-building finish features strong, musky garrigue notes. This needs time.
About the Producer
Clos Saint Jean is a family estate founded in 1900 by Edmund Tacussel. In 1910 he started to bottle wines with the name Clos Saint Jean. Since 1991 when the owner Guy Maurel died his two sons Pascal and Vincent have carried on at the property. The oenologist Philippe Gambie has since 2003 been assisting at the estate and something has happened: two-three famous special cuvées have merged and all the production became bottled at the domain.
